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Along the Inca Road: A Woman's Journey into an Ancient Empire [Paperback]

Karin Muller
4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)

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What's an American woman doing shaking a pink cape at a bull on a hillside in Peru? Ask Karin Muller, a self-described vagabond who is game for anything, especially if it's a traditionally male task in strictly sex role-divided South America. After years of contemplating the thin red line of the Inca Road on her map of the world, Muller takes off with a grant from the National Geographic Society (which also supplied a cameraman) for a six-month jaunt through Ecuador, Peru, Brazil, and Chile. Along the way, she searches for remnants of the ancient stone-paved road and jumps headfirst into whatever adventure she can find. First stop, a cuy doctor whacks her on the back and head with a whimpering guinea pig, then offers her a diagnosis based on the quality of the animal's intestines. She's tear-gassed in an indigenous antigovernment protest, and dresses in an orange cloak, gold sparkles, and black face paint (a concoction made of tar and animal fat) to pull a 200-pound roast pig during the Festival of Mama Negra. In a surreal moment, she witnesses the mysterious crash of a Brazilian military helicopter in the Andean highlands, and in a horrific one, crawls through a mole-like tunnel deep into a mountainside where men spend years digging for gold, leaving only to eat, wash, and haul their ore 423 steps to a giant crushing machine. She even watches a military crew clear live mines planted by Peruvians during the Ecuador-Peruvian border war.

Throughout her adventures, Muller weaves a lively history of the rise and fall of the Incan empire. While the old road is hard to find, the Incan legacy is everywhere, from curanderismo (shamanism) to roundups of golden-fleeced vicunas by villagers spread in human chains to the farming of coca leaves. Her explication of the coca tradition is particularly interesting: the "quintessential Andean sacrament" and the ultimate marker of indigenous identity, chewing coca leaves is akin to sharing a cup of coffee. Of course, she also joins a Bolivian special forces drug patrol in the Amazon to see the more familiar face of cocaine. While Muller doesn't slow down long enough for introspection or much genuine human connection (and you have to occasionally wonder about her cultural sensitivity), she does have a remarkable knack for putting herself in the middle of events, and an unflagging enthusiasm for taking risks most tourists wouldn't dream of. --Lesley Reed --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

From Publishers Weekly

Hoping to embark on a "hero's journey," Muller (Hitchhiking Vietnam) makes the most of a National Geographic grant to explore the ancient Inca Highway that runs through the Andes. Explaining her intention, Muller writes that heroes "are not the strongest nor the bravest, nor even the most deserving. But they all share one trait: They are traveling into the unknown." In this spirit, Muller travels over 3,000 miles through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Chile for "six unscheduled months to take advantage of every opportunity that comes my wayAto spend time with farmers plowing their fields and cross the high plains with a llama caravan." Muller's enthusiasm and interest are unflagging whether in the midst of a dangerous political protest in Quito or undergoing a traditional guinea-pig healing session elsewhere in Ecuador. ("A razor blade materialized and the animal was slit from chin to tail, its skin pulled off like a glove.") While Muller admits difficulty in abiding by some cultural practices encounteredA"the trouble was my own upbringing," she admits, "the only real religion in my family was science"Ashe proves fearless and open-hearted, loath to pass up any experience. Muller even goes out of her way to join a physically and emotionally grueling patrol to remove land mines in the Cordillera mountain range, never complaining that what was said to be a "demonstration" was actually a field of live mines. "That night I dreamt of wandering through a field of exquisite purple flowers," she writes. "I leaned down to pluck one and vaporized." Muller weaves substantial bits of South American history, geography and current events throughout the text, a fitting tribute to an extraordinary odyssey. 16 photos. (Sept.)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

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Customer Reviews

4.2 out of 5 stars
4.2 out of 5 stars
Most helpful customer reviews
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
The strange thing about this book is that theoretically everything's fine about it - looking for and at the remains of a fascinating culture, the author taking part in the local rituals and daily life, writing of acceptable quality. It should be grand - and still I don't like it for some reason.

What made this book quite tiresome was Karin Muller's lack of a sense of humor. It is my firm belief that it is very hard to write a breathtaking book about a difficult journey without being able to see the funny side of different situations. Perhaps that was why I can't say I like the author as a person - and since this book is based on her personal experiences, that itself takes away from the fun of reading this book. Also - as another reviewer correctly noted - she constantly tries to do things that are only done by men in this country, ignoring the gender roles there are a part of the local culture. Is it some misguided attempt to show that women are equal to men? It's certainly very out of place in this country of so ancient traditions.

Karin Muller's descriptions lack real vividness, and she is considers too many local people to be weird. True, their lifestyle is quite different, but it can be said with absolute certainty that so are the lifestyles of many individuals of her own country. She gives fake respect to the world views of these people, talking about how perhaps that is the right way to live. It is obvious she doesn't have the intention of ever doing so.

My review is almost certainly too negative, do not expect the book to be so bad, but I have outlined the main faults simply trying to guess why I instinctively didn't like this book.

And - too much amateur philosophy, perhaps?

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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars You won't be able to put it down Jun 9 2001
Format:Hardcover
Along The Inca Road is a fresh and exciting experiential travel documentary written by a woman who follows a route of the ancient Inca Road from Quito, Ecuador to Santiago, Chile, along the mountains and coast of western South America. Her experiences are immediate, vivid, demanding and colorful. She clearly enjoys the challenge of dipping into and sampling all aspects of local culture. We are with her as she learns to pilot a caballero (reed boat) on the coast of Peru, carries the feast table of Mama Negra in Lacta Cunga, and climbs endless roads and trails to meet the people. Along The Inca Road is a book about the author's experiences with the people as much as about geography and history. After many hair-raising, sometimes hilarious, always challenging and intriguing experiences, she sums it up with the following:

"I had once thought that I was embarking on a 'hero's journey' - an odyssey into the unknown, filled with obstacles, success and failure, and newfound knowledge. And so it had been - only I wasn't the hero of this story. I was just the chronicler. The true heroes were the people I met along the way... They had all stopped for a while to lend me a hand. What I learned from them would carry me through the weeks to come. As long as their memories stayed with me, this journey would never really end (p. 294-295)."

And even more succinctly, she remarks: "The history books have it all wrong. The Inca Empire was never really conquered. It's alive and well (p.294)."

To participate vicariously in her fresh experiences, read this bright travelogue. You won't be able to put it down.

Nancy Lorraine, Reviewer

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1 of 2 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars interesting story about an interesting place Jan 5 2003
By A Customer
Format:Paperback
this is such an interesting place in the world- my wife an I visited it a couple of years ago. Inca history is remarkable, and the area is incredibly beautiful, but life is hard there. Karin describes bith very well in this very interestin book. If you are planning to travel there, you really should read this book
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Most recent customer reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars Take a walk
A book review

It is safe to say that although there are many travel opportunities available today, the majority of people on this planet will seldom stray far from their home... Read more

Published on Aug 18 2001 by Dan Schobert
4.0 out of 5 stars Wonderful romp through a significant part of South America.
Muller is a wonderful travel writer with the ability to make even the mundane come alive. Her way with words ("The main square was full of Saturday-night drunks all walking... Read more
Published on July 19 2001 by Allan M. Gathercoal
5.0 out of 5 stars facinating
I've always been facinated by the Incas. This book only whetted my appetite further and now I'm reading everything I can about them. Read more
Published on Mar 30 2001
5.0 out of 5 stars Tells of a woman's journey on the Inca Road
This armchair adventure story tells of a woman's journey on the Inca Road - a 3,124-mile odyssey across four countries in search of the peoples and history of the region. Read more
Published on Feb 21 2001 by Midwest Book Review
4.0 out of 5 stars Great Read
I just returned from two months in Peru. "Along the Inca Road" was an inspiration. It encouraged me to become more of a participant and less of a spectator. Read more
Published on Jan 18 2001
5.0 out of 5 stars Magnificent!
Compelling, entertaining, historical... this book is a real page-turner.

Muller's keenly-observed journey skillfully interweaves past and present, giving the reader a glimpse of... Read more

Published on Jan 9 2001
5.0 out of 5 stars Magnificent!
Compelling, entertaining, historical... this book is a real page-turner.

Muller's keenly-observed journey skillfully interweaves past and present, giving the reader a glimpse of... Read more

Published on Jan 9 2001
3.0 out of 5 stars Trying to be one of the guys....
If I had realised that "Along the Inca Road" was written by the same author who previously graced us with "Hitch-hiking Vietnam" I probably never would have... Read more
Published on Oct 30 2000 by L. Alper
3.0 out of 5 stars The Gringo Trail, Again
As always, Karin Muller makes a good adventure statment through her solid writing. However, as an adventurer and history buff, I thought the book lacked the depth and content both... Read more
Published on Oct 19 2000 by "rptaylor83"
4.0 out of 5 stars Onward and upward
I was privileged to see bits of this prior to publication - Karin is as brilliant a writer as she is intrepid an adventuress. An inspiration! Read more
Published on Aug 27 2000
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