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Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher
 
 

Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher [Paperback]

Kathy Cosley , Mark Houston
5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
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Book Description

* For climbers who know the basics and are ready to venture at higher altitudes * Written by longtime guides and climbing instructors certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) * Teaches situational thinking and learning as well as technique This intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude - approximately 5000 meters (16,000 feet) and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery - and safety - lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision-making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process. Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying, rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.

About the Author

MARK HOUSTON has been guiding and instructing others in climbing technique for other 20 years; he and Kathy started their climbing careers 26 years ago in the PNW and they got their start guiding with the American Alpine Institute (AAI) in Bellingham. Like Kathy, Mark is certified by the AMGA and IFMGA (American Mountain Guide Association and International Federation of Mountain Guides Assn. respectively); Mark was among the first to gain IFMGA status (in 1997). Mark and Kathy made a very lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua (43 hours). Mark and Kathy run their own small guiding company and lead trips all over the world, throughout the year. KATHY COSLEY has been guiding and instructing others in climbing technique for other 20 years; she and Mark started their climbing careers 26 years ago in the PNW and they got their start guiding with the American Alpine Institute (AAI) in Bellingham. They run their own small guiding company and lead trips all over the world, throughout the year. Kathy is certified by the AMGA and IFMGA (American Mountain Guide Association and International Federation of Mountain Guides Assn. respectively). Mark and Kathy made a very lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua (43 hours). Kathy was the first American woman to climb the Eiger's North Face (1988) as well as the first American woman to climb Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

Inside This Book (Learn More)
First Sentence
What makes mountaineering so compelling is that it demands so much of us. Read the first page
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Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Index | Back Cover
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5.0 out of 5 stars Good read fort aspiring alpinists, Jun 3 2010
This review is from: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Paperback)
A good introduction and review of the challenges facing aspiring alpinists in a very readable volume. Assuming a good knowledge base in rock climbing the authors concentrate on explaining the the different approach in alpine climbing where speed can be safer than temporary security and where thorough planning, route finding and risk assessment matter more than how hard you can climb. The authors use anecdotes to illustrate many of the lessons they have learned to good effect and to break up the instructional prose. Alpine Climbing provides a much more readable introduction to alpine climbing than the old standby, Freedom of the Hills.
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Amazon.com: 4.8 out of 5 stars (12 customer reviews)

21 of 21 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Sweet spot between the basics and the extreme, Dec 27 2004
By Ohio climber "Ohio climber" - Published on Amazon.com
This review is from: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Paperback)
This book hits the sweet spot between Freedom of the Hills and Mark Twight. Finally, a book for those of us who know the basics, maybe have done some guided mountaineering trips or novice routes, and already know how to rock climb, but need to know more in order to venture further on our own. The authors frame everything in terms of making decisions, which is very helpful when you are doing things for the first time. Good discussions of equipment, hazards, weather, navigation, and protective systems. The approach is very down to earth and practical.

17 of 17 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Climb harder than Freedom of the Hills..., Aug 10 2005
By Scott Shankle - Published on Amazon.com
This review is from: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Paperback)
...but not to the extreme.

This book is the second chapter in an aspiring alpinists handbook. I found myself over the years amassing a pile of pooks on running, fittness*, nutrition*, supplements*, advanced rock climbing, ice climbing, crevasse rescue, orienteering*, navigation*, avalanche evaluation, etc. This book would have saved me a few bucks by putting alot of this in one place.

* = These are covered well in this book.

If you know Freedom of the Hills like the back ouf your hand, have Extreme Alpinism and a good book on slightly more advanced rock skills, don't bother. If not, get it.

Even with this book, you need a resource of some sort in avy eval and advanced rock/rope skills.

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars good book, well thought out, Mar 27 2006
By Read some "reader" - Published on Amazon.com
This review is from: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Paperback)
I agree with the reviewers above (below) that this book complements "Freedom of the Hills". In particular it focuses more on the decision making process than most books of these types. Although I've never traveled with either of the authors, they seem like lovely people and the stories they tell flesh them out for the reader. They also answered a question I had when I wrote them via email. In all, a solid book that it would do to put on your bookshelf.
 Go to Amazon.com to see all 12 reviews  4.8 out of 5 stars 
 
 
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