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The Beerbistro Cookbook
 
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The Beerbistro Cookbook [Hardcover]

Stephen Beaumont , Brian Morin , Mike Mccoll
4.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)

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Quill & Quire

Cooking with beer is often considered the domain of drunken bachelors who, in a flash of inspiration, dump a can of Guinness into their chili pot. Since 2003, however, restaurateur Stephen Beaumont and chef Brian Morin have been trying to change that attitude with beerbistro, an upscale downtown Toronto eatery where everything from the burgers to the ice cream is made with brew. The beerbistro Cookbook aims to extend that culinary education beyond the bounds of the restaurant. The great strength of this book is the depth with which it explores beer – not only cooking with it, but also drinking it. There is a superb, lengthy section at the start that explains in detail how beer is made and how it should be drunk. The authors demystify the different types of beers – from basic ales and lagers to pilsners, stouts, fruit beers, and more – and offer instruction on proper pouring techniques (with photos), and explain how to match beer to food. The recipes themselves tend toward the hearty and robust, with such offerings as porter-braised pulled pork, beer-cured salmon, coq au bier, lamb burger with stout, and numerous mussel dishes. And yes, there are even recipes for beer ice cream. Where the book falls short is its design, particularly its photography. There is no reason in today’s professional creative culture that a cookbook from such a tony establishment should feature amateurish, blurry, unstyled and, in a few cases, downright repulsive photographs. The authors have worked hard to convince us that cooking with beer is for true gastronomes. Too bad they didn’t take their own efforts seriously enough to hire a food photographer who knows his or her stuff. If beerbistro is underdesigned, Ricardo suffers from the opposite problem. One of the big dilemmas facing cookbook publishing is that content is often dictated by another medium: TV. These days, if you don’t look hot on camera, odds are you won’t get a TV cooking show, regardless of how talented a chef you are. And if you don’t have a TV show, your chances of publishing a cookbook are slim. This is not to say that all cookbooks spawned from cooking shows are junk, but the superficial nature of TV can often lead to privileging design over gastronomy. Ricardo Larrivée has done some remarkable things with his Food Network show Ricardo and Friends. Based in Quebec, he is perhaps the only Franco-Anglo crossover food celebrity in the country who hasn’t hammered on les tambours d’habitants while doling out variations on sugar pie, poutine, and tourtière. Yes, the show’s shot in Quebec. Yes, there are French inflections throughout. But Larrivée comes off as just a regular guy cooking creatively in his home kitchen. All of that, and too much more, comes through in his new book, Ricardo: Meals for Every Occasion. In an interesting twist on the title’s promise, Larrivée offers chapters that actually contort the notion of “everyday” into such uncommon occasions as surprise sleepovers and friends visiting from Europe. He also offers chapters about cooking for guys, the boss, unexpected guests, and the tardy. These contrivances push the book into conceptual overdrive, and its designers have employed copious “lifestyle” photography to inflate Larivée’s offering of 125 recipes into a 272-page slab that resembles an Eddie Bauer catalogue on steroids. Sure, the pictures are gorgeous, but the photo-to-recipe ratio of over 2:1 says it all. You can go half-a-dozen pages in this book without encountering a single word. Wade through all that packaging, however, and you’ll find Larrivée’s excellent, approachable, and inventive recipes, such as pork tenderloin with bacon breading, chicken with morels, onion tarte tatin, cream of shallot soup, fiddlehead omlette, and muscat and red grape cake. If this were restaurant cooking, with its simple preparations, interesting ingredients, and basic flavours, we’d call it “new bistro” and happily tuck in. Too bad the book itself features more surface than substance.

Product Description

In beerbistro Cookbook, writer Stephen Beaumont and chef Brian Morin show how you can take your beer to a whole new culinary level. Covering everything from getting to know your ales and lagers to appetizers, mains, cheese, beer cocktails, and even beer pastry, first-timers and foodies will find something to whet their appetites and wet their whistles.

Informative sidebars provide tips and hints on everything from how to pour beer to what glassware to pour it into. True-to-life photos will take you behind the scenes to see exactly how these mouth-watering dishes are made. They will make you hungry for more.

Recipes include: Blonde Ale Vegetable Pakoras, Grilled Porter, Pulled Pork Quesadillas, Curried Butternut Squash and Ale Hummus, Drunken Portobello Mushroom Sandwich, The Ultimate Frites, Apple Ale Back Ribs, Navajo Spice Rubbed Oatmeal Stout Chicken, Maudite Onion Confit, Beer Butter Tarts, Beeramisu, Stout Macadamia Nut Brownies, and Beerscream.

PRAISE FOR THE BEERBISTRO

?I find the winning [pulled-pork] sandwich at beerbistro, the beer-centric Financial District restaurant where chef/owner Brian Morin pushes the envelope of tradition without dialling down the passion inherent in good barbecue.?--The Toronto Star

?The beerbistro Cookbook is without doubt the very best book on the topic of cooking with beer that I?ve seen. (...) My favorite new cookbook thus far this year. ? --January Magazine


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4.0 out of 5 stars Usually great!, Nov 21 2010
By 
A. Lewis (Japan) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   
This review is from: The Beerbistro Cookbook (Hardcover)
There are a lot of hits in this cookbook (the stout & skor ice cream, the mussels recipes, the coq au bière and the curried butternut squash hummus to name a few)... but there are also a few misses (the bread recipes take almost 4x longer to cook than the instructions say), and it can be frustrating when a recipe calls for the use of 3+ other recipes.

It's a fun cookbook though, and my husband loves to cook out of it. We've both learned a ton about beer and matching it with foods. I definitely give this one a buy.
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Amazon.com: 4.5 out of 5 stars (2 customer reviews)

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars Don't try this at home..., Jan 24 2010
By Sher Schachameyer - Published on Amazon.com
This review is from: The Beerbistro Cookbook (Hardcover)
I bought The Beer Bistro Cookbook for my partner for the holidays, and we've been having fun with it ever since. The Stout Brownies, alone, were worth the price of the book.

However, we planned a dinner party for 7 this weekend using only recipes from the book, with beer in every one, and had more trouble than we bargained for. For example, the recipe for white beer-cured salmon with sweet mustard and porter pancakes begins on page 81, then refers the reader to page 171 for the beer-cured salmon, page 200 for porter pancakes, and page 211 for the sweet mustard sauce. Different parts of the recipe serve different numbers of people, so the whole thing becomes very confusing and inefficient, with not enough sauce, way too much pancake batter and way, way too much fish. The appetizer was delicious, but when we make it again, we'll refer to our own notes in the margins to get it right.

We also made the potato-weissbier bread, which took 3-4 times longer to bake than indicated in the book, bistro salad (no problem), Belgian ale steak stew, which had such an acrid gravy that I drained all the gravy off and created my own, and beeramisu, which took us two tries and some ingenuity to make it suitable. We had a wonderful dinner party, but could have used more help from this cookbook. Did anyone test these recipes for home use?

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars The Gold Standard for Beer Cuisine - Casual Elegance, April 29 2009
By Carolyn Smagalski "Beer Fox" - Published on Amazon.com
This review is from: The Beerbistro Cookbook (Hardcover)
Casual elegance...Gourmet chic merged with relaxed gustatory delight - in a word, beerbistro of Toronto. Brian Morin, Executive Chef and Owner of beerbistro, and Stephen Beaumont, International Travel and Drinks Author, have found a way to bring this casual elegance into the lives of those throughout North America with this dynamic, eye-catching, hardcover book.

A quick perusal through the photographs of this volume provides a voyeurs look at the silky level of sumptuous comestibles prepared at beerbistro. These tasty victuals titillate the taste buds with pleasure, both in cuisine à la Bière and in libations that combine to make the beerbistro experience one of unparalleled pleasure. Concurrently, the mind instantly engages in a state of comfort through the authors' simple illumination of specific topics that enhance your immersion into the pleasures of good beer. Chef Morin's mission, "changing the way people think about beer," emerges as a glowing ember in this cookbook-style presentation of beerbistro's avant garde objective.

The essence of beerbistro stands out as upbeat, youthful, energetic, sophisticated, freshly local, diverse, economical, and multicultural. Brian Morin's distinctive vision to provide freshly crafted, beer-infused food, including beerbistro's home-smoked bacon, 16-hour pulled pork, and hand-crafted mayonnaise, sauces, jellies, salsas, jams, and glazes, positions him in a distinctive category of culinary excellence. One quickly recognizes beerbistro fare as something to be savored, like the languorous pleasure of a lover's all-night caress.

The beerbistro Cookbook covers two areas of expertise: The first, Beaumont and Morin's instructive section on beer knowledge and styles; and the second, Chef Morin's classic, French-inspired beer cuisine. The introduction makes beerbistro come alive through its philosophy of beer cuisine, beverage exploration and the people that infuse energy into each dining experience; then plunges forth into Beer Knowledge with a straightforward orientation about how beer is crafted and the highlights that differentiate styles, one from another. It elaborates on geography, climate, flora, attitude, and technology, and how these led to the expansive selection we enjoy today.

Chapter 2, Beer at the Table, gives a tutorial, complete with photos, defining the proper way to pour specific styles of beer, noting the characteristics that dictate the pour and how to enhance the overall beauty of each. Beaumont provides his "four steps to pairing beer and food," simplifying a complex subject with realistic guidelines that set the stage for epicurean discovery. This follows with "seven steps to hosting a home beer tasting," encouraging greater exploration into the world of beer and the nuances to be found within each style.

Beer in the Kitchen awakens the senses with a multi-faceted array of possibilities in beer cuisine. Rules that will keep you out of trouble in beer cookery are invaluable. In addition, the authors infuse the brain with exciting possibilities through Morin's finely polished skills; then expand the gustatory arena by associating styles with mental awareness, whether quenching or crisp, sociable or bold, soothing or contemplative.

Following this delicious dip into beer enlightenment, Chef Morin's beer cuisine, à la beerbistro, defines the symphonic merging of select ingredients, culinary expertise and a clear understanding of the complexities of beer. Recipe sections include everything to please the appetite: from beginnings, everyday food and barbecue, to pastries, beerscreams and baked goods. You will find such exotic treats as blonde ale pakoras with roasted pineapple raita; duck confit corn dogs; cold spring pea soup with white beer, yogurt, crushed red peppercorns, and mint; grilled lamb loin niçoise; and stout and Skör Bar ice cream. Such epicurean specialties are evidence of the free-range creativity Morin has cultivated as a Master of Bière Cuisine.

Highlights of The beerbistro Cookbook include a mouth-watering section on mussels (one in which beerbistro's mission clearly takes center stage), while the Butcher Shop satiates with the beautiful results that are possible when French culinary training intermingles with a philosophy centered on in-house marinating, slow cooking, and smoking of meats. A chapter on Beer and Cheese presents a chart describing the attributes that enable the creation of "ultimate pairings," with specific examples of each. Morin stretches even further with The Pantry, where he shares secrets that create the pièce de résistance - banana-onion jam, gueuze sour cream, tarragon and ale vinaigrette - that puts the heart of casual elegance into the beerbistro dining experience. To further quench the spirit, Beer Cocktails, such as Belgian redhead or bière flambée, lay at the conclusion as a gentle reminder of traditions long established that sate the tongue or soothe the belly.

It is no surprise that Certified Chef de Cuisine Brian Morin has been described as "North America's Gold Standard for Beer Cuisine."
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