I first got my mini-cast spin-casting combo in the early 1980s and it's still going strong.
The key to satisfaction with any type of fishing rod and reel is to match its type to the job at hand.
For example, this "smaller than ultra-light" Daiwa Mini-Cast is NOT for inexperienced fishermen (who mainly know two things: (1) Throw out a baited hook, and (2) Reel them in).
The lightweight rod is well matched to the 4 lb. test line that comes with the unit, but one should never "lift" out a fish using this ultralight type of rod, even with a little ol' 2 lb. bass.
The fish must be played until its fight is gone, then lifted out of the water by hand, or with a gaff or net.
I found the (supplied) 4 lb. test line well suited to this rod and reel, so I started with that.
With 4 lb. test, I have hauled plenty of 30-inch carp out of tidewater rivers, after fighting them for up to 30 minutes.
Why go for a lightweight rig? Well, for starters, when fishing for trout or for smaller panfish, a lightweight rig can cast 1/16 oz. spinners and small jigs way farther out than stiffer eight-to-twelve pound line of the bigger rigs.
Secondly, the spin-casting method offers the unbeatable certitude of cast when night fishing, especially in woods-lined fishing waters where darkness and obstacles are maximal.
Third, in the dark, in cases of slack line (where most of your tangles occur in open-faced spinning reels), the enclosed bobbin spin-cast reel definitely shines for avoiding tangles.
Fourth, the simpler action of a push-button release is something that can be "muscle-memorized" even with your eyes closed, for a good cast without even seeing what you're doing--great for night-time work.
The best thing though, is the sensitivity of the ultra-light equipment when fishing for the pan, for such delectables as bream and other sunfish with their lady-like touch and pinky-finger sized mouth opening. Setting the hook is far more sure--you can "feel" the slightest nibble right through the line to your rod hand.
Some things to remember are to set any drag pretty light with this reel, and "pump the rod" to play the fish, using the crank only to take up the slack when you've pumped 'em a few feet closer.
You'll easily feel when they run out of gas; at that time you can reel them close, but DON'T lift them from the water: Either grab them with your hand, with a gaff hook or use a net. The rod's not intended to take that kind of stress.
N.B.: Don't be sticking your fingers into a trout, pickeral or other toothy fish's mouth, but bass and other soft-mouthed fish can be grabbed by sticking your thumb into their mouth and grabbing their lower jaw. Likewise, if you think you may toss back the fish you've caught, don't gaff them through the body or gill. Hook them through the lower jaw; they'll thrive when released.
If you're going light, you won't carry a shovel for digging worms, so remember to stock a few small-sized flies on a felt, plus three small jigs (black-bluegill; yellow-crappie; red-bass), a popper or two, a gold-and-goldfeather Panther Martin spinner 1/16th oz. or smaller and maybe just one 1/8 to 1/4-oz. crankbait plug like the Rat-L-Trap shad or crawfish with "blood" marks).
Carry a few split shot sinkers and the smallest foam-type bobber you can find and now you have a total fishing rig for all "emergencies" at a reasonable price. All this extra stuff can be carried in the compartments of the set.
Remember: Point the rod toward the fighting fish when they jerk and run, to spare the line guides and rod, then pull them back gently to fight them closer. THEN take up the slack with the reel as needed.
Doing things right with ultralights makes fishing a blast and extends equipment durability.