83 of 86 people found the following review helpful
- Published on Amazon.com
This EnviroTex does what it is supposed to do. It does create a beautiful finish on many items, and I do intend to use it more in the future. My problem has to do with the directions. I was updating my old countertops and putting this over top of them to really give them a nice wow factor. In the directions it says to pour the mixed contents over the item and smooth it out with a foam brush or putty knife. I did this...twice. Each time it was not smooth at all, and I am a pretty handy person. I started researching how to make it look better. I spent a couple nights online writing down similar ways to apply it from other products that are like it. A good number of these other products said to use a small roller and apply it that way across the counters. This did involve me sanding the EnviroTex that I already laid down twice off my counters. It was not a simple process, much to the credit of this company, because this stuff is very thick. It took me a whole night to sand everything off of them and then clean the kitchen. I only had a small portion of EnviroTex left in my two bottles, and chose to do the island in my kitchen to make sure this would work better. It worked great with the roller!!! Very pleased with it. The bad news is now I have to purchase more of it to finish off the kitchen when if they had just said in the directions to use a roller in the first place, things would have gone much smoother. I never leave reviews on items I buy off of Amazon, and I buy things from here frequently, but I felt I better for this product. If I can save just one person on here the hassle of what I had to go through, then I will feel better about everything. So please, EnviroTex, your directions sheet should be changed to include using a roller to apply your product. Like I said, I will use this on other projects in the future, but I will definitely be using a roller!
42 of 44 people found the following review helpful
Amazonian Since 1999
- Published on Amazon.com
I have covered at least 10 pieces in this epoxy resin, and I love the results. It looks like glass or 50 coats of varnish. I took the time to learn how to do it right, both by watching all the YouTube videos demonstrating it and watching an artist friend of mine do it in person (and her pieces sell for thousands!). It works well on mounted wooden panels. If you want to use it on canvas, wrap the canvas around a wooden panel (just like you would stretch canvas over bars) and staple into the back.
You will need a mask for the fumes (I feel like Darth Vader when I'm wearing it), rubber gloves, a heat gun (this helps get out the bubbles), two paper mixing buckets and a big paint stir stick, two clear plastic "party" cups (I use ones with stripes to help me with the measuring), shims and a level, a toothpick to get out bits of dust from the surface while it's wet, and a cheap chip brush or foam brush to spread it around. I use painter's tape on the bottom of the piece to make it easier to remove the drips without having to sand them off (I remove the tape after about 4 hours, before everything's really hardened, but the pieces are still tacky at this point, so it's a tricky operation). I also elevate the pieces so they're not sitting in the dripped off resin. A cheap plastic tablecloth will protect your work surface, and the dried resin will peel right off it.
So many of the materials (gloves, buckets, cups, stick, and brush) all have to be thrown away afterwards, that it's better to do several projects at once, although not more than you can manage in the time frame before it starts to set. A large cardboard box or a clear plastic container should be set over the finished piece for the first two days while it dries. Dust and little hairs are your worst enemy when using this process, so try to do it in a low-dust environment, and use a strong light to check the surface for the little buggers while it's still wet.
I have done this successfully over photographs, but I have to seal the photos first (this also works with paper). I messed up a few before I figured out the best way to do this. I mount the photos on a painted wooden panel with spray glue, then I spray the picture with fixative, which seems to help protect it. Then I spray on a clear acrylic finish. Then I paint on clear acrylic gloss medium (which is like varnish). I used to go straight from the glue stage to the gloss medium, but that's when I would run into trouble getting the picture too wet and smeared. The two steps in between have eliminated any problems with that. Be sure to allow the piece to dry thoroughly after each step. The gloss medium might not be necessary, since I've used the spray acrylic, but I'm going for a thick, deep, shiny effect.
Anyway, once you get the hang of the process, you will be eager to try it on everything! I looked at this item in art supply stores, but Amazon has the best price.
27 of 32 people found the following review helpful
- Published on Amazon.com
Envirotex Pour on High gloss works like a champ. I have worked on and off this product for over 20 yrs. I just repoured a 32ft bar in a restaurant and did tables as well. Holds up well, cleans well with micro fiber cloth towels. A hint, Spray windex on table then wipe with Dry Micro fiber towel, No streaks. One down fall, do NOT allow what ever you pour to be exposed to sunlight as it will Yellow over time and I mean a very short time, weeks. This is an indoor product for the most part. When mixing make sure that you have mixed well showing that your mix has LOTS of air bubbles. The air bubbles with be very helpful in leveling your top with you use the torch. Make sure you have to torch to finish pouring otherwise your top that you poured will turn out terrible. You have about 30 minutes to work with the product and then it's done. Don't buy good brushes for this product, use a fair to cheap bristle, just make sure you don't loose the bristles in the finish, if you do, pick them out and ad more product, a few drops and then level add torch to take out the bubbles. You can also use Bondo puddy pads along with your brushes. I have learned to use both. The hardest part you will have is doing the sides of the tops. You will have to brush them a few times then allowing them to start to set up then Cut the drippings off the bottom with your bondo pad having a paper towel under your knife pad. Rubber gloves are nice to have to work with this product. Make sure you don't have any flys or insects where you are working as they will fly into your project when you are not around only to appear after you can't fix it. 12hours to dust free, 24 hours to pour again, and DON"T let ANYONE NEAR YOUR PROJECT. EVERYONE WANTS TO TOUCH IT. KEEP YOUR FINGERS OFF. Don't be scared to YELL it. Trust me on this one. Any Questions email me. email@example.com
9 of 10 people found the following review helpful
- Published on Amazon.com
I used this product to pour on to my countertops after I had painted them to look like granite. When I mixed it the first time, I did not follow instructions so please, read this review and learn from my colossal screw up that cost me hours of time and the monetary cost of more product.
Make sure you mix the product as directed. Mix in one container for a full minute then pour into another container and mix for another full minute. Count or set a timer, they want it to be a minute. You want to see lots of bubbles in the product. These you will pop later on the surface. After stirring, throw the stick you stirred with away. Do not reuse, do not use to spread, just toss.
By not mixing this way I had patches of uncured product all over my counters, about 60 -70 square feet. I was sick. I had to scrape off the product with a putty knife. Some of it was still syrupy but other parts had cured some on the bottom but not the top so I had to work the putty knife under and chip it up in sheets. It was a good day and a half worth of work. I then had to touch up paint and repour.
Only mix a gallon up at a time.
When pouring countertops start pouring in the back then work the product toward the edge using a straight edge. I got a lot of paint stir sticks from my home improvement store. I did this so I didn't have to lean over product to smooth, especially in the corners.
Get a partner to do this with you. It is especially helpful for one to be mixing and pouring while the other one works the product around and pops bubbles with the torch.
Plan on throwing whatever you are wearing away after.
I retouched the edge of my counters since they are straight not rounded with a little disposable sponge roller after. The edges are tough and will be a thinner coating then the tops of the counters if they are straight.
Use a torch or a heat gun to pop the bubbles after. Not to close or it will cause burning in the product. Inches away and keep it moving.
It should be hard to the touch after 8 hours. If you are seeing alligatoring on the surface or feel tackiness prepare to scrape. If it is not initially hard after 8 hours it will never cure correctly.
Get more product then you think you need. They give you a guide on the product and website but the best thing to do is flood coat the counter to get a nice thick covering. You can always repour after 12 hours if you are so inclined. This is not the product to be frugal with! Generosity is the name of the game and you will not be disappointed with the results.
Thankfully after all the scraping then the repainting I had to do and a nice thick pour I am pleased with how they turned out. Even with all the product I had to buy to redo it was still less then new laminate counters and definitely less then granite which is what it looks like.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
B. L. Huffman
- Published on Amazon.com
I have used this type of bar finish before but not this brand. Environmental tech gas bubbles came to surface and broke better than the last brand I used. Did not have to use propane torch as much to brake the bubbles. I covered a 48 inch table with beer bottle caps. Used 1/2 gal during first pour.which made an 8th of an inch thick layer of urethane around and holding the bottle caps. Waited 5hrs then poured the final leveling layer which completely covered the bottle caps. Covered with cardboard dust shield for 5hrs supported on a couple of chair backs. Final project came out high gloss and hard. This makes a water proof bar top, not heat or scratch proof.
P.S. I installed a lip around the edge of table 1/4 inch higher than the surface the bottle caps were sitting on. This allowed me to flood the table with the product.