From Publishers Weekly
Unsoeld, who made the first ascent of Mt. Everest's West Ridge in 1963, was perhaps the most influential high-altitude mountain climber of the 1960s and 1970s; as a professor of philosophy at Evergreen State College, he was also an entertaining and "spellbinding" lecturer. The bulk of Roper's gripping biography describes Unsoeld's 1976 Indo-American Nanda Devi Expedition, which he conceived as a tribute to both to the first ascent of India's tallest peak in 1936 and to his 22-year-old daughter, Devi, who was named after the mountain and who joined the expedition as the fulfillment of a dream. Roper presents the troubled expedition marked by infighting, sickness and Devi's death from intestinal problems just short of the peak as a "sea-change" in climbing: whereas "the ethos of camaraderie" had been essential in Unsoeld's 1963 ascent, by the mid-'70s, it had disappeared. ("As Tom Wolfe declared," Roper writes, "it was the `Me Decade.' ") Through an analysis of Unsoeld's graduate studies in philosophy, Roper shows how the Nanda Devi climb was, in many respects, the realization of Unsoeld's belief that when an "outcome is shadowed by doubt and you may well be on a suicide mission, you feel most intensely alive." But in the two years of life that remained to him (he died in a Mt. Rainier avalanche in 1979), Roper argues that Unsoeld was "devoted to an active refusal to recognize what had happened." This is a provocative look at a still-legendary climber. Two 8-page b&w photo inserts not seen by PW.
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From Booklist
A spirit-seeking hippie before hippies even existed, mountaineering legend Willi Unsoeld named his daughter after India's tallest peak: Nanda Devi. Twenty-two years later, in 1976, Nanda Devi died on Nanda Devi. Her fate, her father's attitude about climbing, and mountaineering's transition from amateur hobby to slick commercial enterprise are all covered in this book. Roper does not offer a biography (a niche filled by Lawrence Leamer's
Ascent, 1982) but, rather, sorts out conflicting accounts of Unsoeld's dissension-wracked expedition to Nanda Devi. Ostensibly undertaken to commemorate its first summitting in 1936, the expedition's real motive was to facilitate Nanda Devi's intimate communing with her eponym. Famed as half the duo that first climbed Everest via its western ridge in 1963, Unsoeld was past his prime 13 years later. So the group included a younger, stronger alpinist named John Roskelly, who was not looking for Hindu deities or self-actualization; he hoped to become an entrepreneurial guide. Not the smoothest of narratives, Roper's story of the conflict will nevertheless gain purchase with fans of adventure books.
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