Middione wants his readers to move beyond the stereotypes of Southern Italian food, to eat the simple dishes he treasures. Granted, many of the recipes are familiar, and there are many other good Italian cookbooks. But he succeeds wonderfully in presenting scores of others: trout with mushrooms, snails with oregano, mushrooms roasted with pine nuts, tiny pastries called rose wheels. Each recipe specifies the region in which it originated. His menu and wine suggestions are especially good. Recommended. SP
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