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  • LiftMaster 3800 Side-Mount Residential Jackshaft Garage Door Opener
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LiftMaster 3800 Side-Mount Residential Jackshaft Garage Door Opener

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1 new from CDN$ 550.37
  • Specially designed for garages & applications that don't allow for a traditional garage door opener
  • For sectional doors only, up to 14 ft. high or 180 sq. ft., 650 lbs
  • Push button limit settings/automatic force sensing allows for faster setup
  • Meets all UL325 requirements,Ultra-quiet 24V DC motor performance.
  • Includes:Premium Remote Control,Smart Control Panel,Remote Light,Power Lock,Safety Beam Sensor
See more product details

Product Information

Technical Details
Part Number3800 elit
Item Weight15 Kg
Product Dimensions61 x 25.4 x 30.5 cm
Item model number3800 LM
Voltage24 volts
Item Package Quantity1
Length61 centimeter
Width25.4 centimeter
Height30.5 centimeter
Additional Information
Best Sellers Rank #36,436 in Tools & Home Improvement (See top 100)
Shipping Weight15 Kg
Date First AvailableAug. 26 2011
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Product Description

Free up that ceiling space for a lift or additional storage. Wall-mount installation - mounts on the left or right side of door. No rails to hang, it simply mounts on the wall and attaches to the garage door torsion bar. Unit requires an electrical outlet within 6 feet. Patented absolute positioning technology - the newest technology in garage door openers. Liftmaster patented design allows the electronic limits to be extremely accurate, even after a power failure. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES 990LM Surge Protector - Safely protects the entire garage door opener system,including the AC power line, control panel and the Protector System Safety Sensors. 377LM Keyless Entry - Never have to worry about keys to the house. This is an ideal way for kids to enter the home without the need for carrying a house key or a friend who want to get into your garage. 395LM Remote Light Control - No more walking into a dark house. As your driving up to your home open the garage door and turn on a light (or holiday lights) with your garage door remote control. 975LM Laser Parking Assist - Designed to help you park in the right spot, everytime. 580LM Alternate power Source - Makes installing the model 3800 Residential Jackshaft Opener easier when an outlet is not available within 6 feet. Puts power right where you need it. 475LM Battery Backup - Each year 93% of homeowners experience a power loss. And one of the many inconveniences they face is a garage door that won't open. 915LM Garage Door Monitor - Ever wonder if your garage door is open? Garage Monitor gives you peace of mind knowing if your garage door is open or closed from any room in the house.

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Customer Reviews

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Most helpful customer reviews

By dave12 on Nov. 22 2012
Verified Purchase
receive the product sooner than expected, its a very solid garage opener and very quiet too! the instruction was very clear.
note. allen keys are not included in the product
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By MrMcs on March 30 2013
Verified Purchase
Had now for over a year with flawless performance. I will NEVER go back to the standard overhead openers. These are extremely smooth and quite, simple to install and compact.
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Verified Purchase
Do yourself a favour and get this opener. We love it and it's fast and quiet. Fast and easy to install.
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By Sormaro on July 14 2014
Verified Purchase
Simply the best!
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on (beta) 175 reviews
194 of 197 people found the following review helpful
Great Opener, Questionable Customer Service Dec 11 2007
By J. Stoltz - Published on
I installed this LiftMaster 3800 opener in my garage over this past weekend. It took a couple of hours in total, not because the installation is terribly complicated but just because there's a lot of little things to do during the installation. The instructions are very thorough and accurate and the opener works extremely well.

When I got home last night, after using the opener for 3 days, I noticed that the light was no longer working. I checked the power to it, replaced the bulbs and attempted to reprogram it. Bottom line is that the light simply stopped responding to commands from the head unit and the wall-mounted control. Unlike conventional garage door openers the light is 'wireless' in that it receives commands to turn on and off remotely. You simply plug it into an outlet anywhere in the garage. This, evidently, was a scenario Chamberlain's customer service was not prepared for. Despite giving them my model number the representative could not come to grips with the fact that the light was not part of the motor assembly. After providing her the model number of the light itself we began to make progress. However, once we reached a point where there was no more troubleshooting to be done and the light still did not work there was an awkward silence. After about 10 minutes of this silence (though I could hear voices in the background) I asked if she was still there. She said yes and that she would need to talk to a supervisor. She did and the supervisor wanted me to 'hard wire' the wall mount to the motor assembly. She could not adequately explain to me what that meant. The wall control IS hard-wired to the motor, albeit with 30-feet of wire. All other functions of the wall control work so I knew that wasn't the problem. The motor assembly is 11-feet off the ground and I wasn't about to dig out the ladder, move the car and climb up there knowing full well that nothing I did to the motor assembly was going to fix that light. After multiple requests the supervisor refused to speak with me and they reluctantly agreed to replace the light. In total I had over an hour invested in that phone call.

Back to the review....I really wanted to ding the opener for my poor customer service experience. But that wouldn't be fair. With the exception of this light problem, I am so impressed with this opener that I need to give it 5 stars.

The opener is extremely quiet and smooth. I replaced a Craftsman chain-driven opener with this Liftmaster 3800 and the difference is like night and day. My bedroom is above my garage so it's important to have a quiet opener that is NOT mounted to the ceiling (which is obviously the bedroom floor). The door opens substantially faster than the conventional opener I replaced and slows to a graceful stop just before the preset travel limit. On the down cycle the door closes at the same rate as the old opener.

The standard package of features with the opener is outstanding. It comes with a nice, blue-backlit LCD wall controller that displays the time and temperature. The wall control gives you status messages and also contains a motion detector that turns on the lights when you enter the garage. You can also program new remotes using the wall control rather than having to climb up and hit the 'learn' button on the motor unit (though you could do that if you wanted to). The remote control that comes with the unit has nice, blue LEDs that illuminate when it senses that your hand is near it. This is great when you're fishing around your console in the dark for the remote. Last, the dead bolt feature is a nice added security option.

Installation is not complicated. The hardest part was installing the collar that connects the motor shaft to the torsion bar assembly. They use some sort of super-duper thread lock that makes it difficult to turn the bolts. They have Allen's heads so make sure you have a sturdy, hardened Allen's wrench. There is not a lot of room, either, so take the advice in the instructions and position the collar in a manner that allows you to get at all the bolts. The only tool required that the average handyman might not have is a 3/4" metal bit for drilling the dead bolt hole. That's a big bit and most drill bit sets only go up to 1/2".

Programming is simple if you follow the instructions. I easily programmed the door stops in a matter of minutes and it self-learns the force limits based on a full cycle of door operation. The opener is Homelink compatible and I programmed both my vehicles to operate the door without any trouble.

Last, a word to the wise, most accessories for the door start with the number "3". I ordered a keypad and keyfob remote for the door and both were incorrect. Just because a device says it's SECURITY + compatible doesn't mean it works with the 3800 opener. Make sure you get a device that works with SECURITY + and is also for openers with a PURPLE learn button.
94 of 99 people found the following review helpful
Once correctly installed - It will work perfectly! Sept. 29 2007
By Polar Bear - Published on
Verified Purchase
Let me start off by saying that this is NOT a garage door opener to purchase if you can get away with a more traditional style, suspended from the ceiling, track door opener. My new house has a load bearing beam that was 2 3/4" short of allowing me to install my first choice, the Chamberlain ½hp Whisper Drive. I didn't know that until I ordered it, but thankfully Amazon was awesome, as usual, and took the unit back for the full purchase price. Thank you Amazon!

My neighbor was exceptionally vocal against the choice of the Chamberlain 3800 Jackshaft opener stating that they had checked into this option and the local Home Depot had stopped selling the unit because of "all the trouble with the installation of the damn thing". That is partially true, Home Depot & the local Lowe's do not sell this unit. Why they no longer carry it, I do not know for sure, but you can't buy it locally.

I will say this concerning the Chamberlain 3800 Jackshaft Opener - if you do not have excellent troubleshooting skills, look at a different model or consider professional installation. I have wasted an entire Saturday on the installation of the unit, and I have tomorrow to finish the final tacking up of the wires and the cleaning up of the garage. :-(

My garage door is a Wayne Dalton, and it's brand new, so the questions of balance and correct installation have been taken care of for me. The door is about 16' wide and is about 8 feet tall. This is a sectional, aluminum door, and it seemed to pass all the "correctly balanced" tests, so I felt that is was a perfect candidate for this unit.

The installation of the main hardware was extremely straight forward. If you possess the basic set of home tools ( a cordless/corded drill, a few drill bits, a couple of screwdrivers, a level, a pair of wire cutters, a hammer, etc.) you should have no problem with the installation itself. Now the fun begins!

There are (3) pieces of the installation that are absolutely necessary for the unit to perform correctly, but that information is vague in the directions. For your own sanity, I will list them so if you find yourself screaming obscenities at the Engineer who designed this unit, you can refer to my experience and save your blood pressure a few points. :-)

1) The Wall Mount Control Unit: This MUST be connected correctly for the unit to function in the open/close operation. The problem is, for all the advanced connections and thought put into the unit, you are forced to strip 7/16" of an inch of cheap, thin wire and wrap it around a standard Phillips head screw. You are then supposed to run this screw ALL THE WAY IN to the motherboard of the cheap, plastic unit that is the house "control". This is easily the cheapest, most asinine, piece of the whole installation. A set of quick connects, or a true wire termination point, would greatly increase the average person's ability to install this unit by themselves.
2) The "Protector" System: This is basically the electronic eyes that stop the garage door in the event that your child/dog/cat/neighbor annoyance gets in under the door while it's closing. The key features are that one eye has a solid Amber color light, this is your "sending" unit, and a solid Green color, and this is the "receiver" unit. Mounting these units at the same height and insuring that they can "see" each other will create a solid, invisible beam that, when broken, will cause a reverse of the door travel. These MUST be in place correctly for the unit to work correctly.
3) The "Cable Tension" Monitor: Last, but not least, this pain in the @ss unit is a complete misnomer. There is NO monitoring of tension that is taking place with the placement of this unit. It has a type of circuit, I forget the name, but essentially it needs pressure to insure the door will open, and it needs NO PRESSURE on it to insure the door will close. I have spent over 2 hours figuring this out, so take heed of this information. I changed the placement of this unit no less than 5 times in the attempt to get it to work properly. This is the KEY piece of equipment to get the garage door to close after it has been opened.

My garage door has a sort of "lurch" in it when it starts to close. This "lurch", or sudden start, causes a quick slack in the "tension" of the cable that is used to open/close the garage door. When this "lurch" would happen, it would cause this circuit to "close" prematurely and reverse the travel of the door. This was kicking my @ss for at least an hour before, while on perpetual hold with Chamberlain "tech" support, that it dawned on me a way to test the device. It turns out, with the door closed, there is to be NO TENSION, on this unit at all. The unit is built with an automatic closure spring that forces the unit to close and keep the rolling "handle" close to the cable. When the door is closed, the internal spring causes the handle to rest close to the wire, effectively closing the circuit. When the door is open, this unit is "pried" away from the spring that closes the circuit, by the tension cable that is used in the process, so the circuit is "open". With the circuit in the OPEN condition, and provided the rest of the equipment is installed correctly, the door will close correctly.

So, after a couple of trips to the local hardware store, and the better part of a Saturday wasted, I have achieved installation and the door SEEMS to function perfectly. I have now opened and closed the garage door well over 30 times, testing both the hardwired, wall-mounted remote and the wireless, in vehicle, remote from various points of the driveway & street. Range is good, but not outstanding. Some of that seems to be the "shielding" of the double insulated, double sheet rocked, garage walls.

I will update this review after a few months of use and let you know how it is holding up.

Functionally, this is a very sound, very functional, space saving garage door opener. If the installation procedure were more straight forward (by reworking the wall mounted control wiring connections and the complete ELIMINATION of the "Cable Tension" Monitor) I think it would be a very good choice for your home.

As for me, I am hoping for the small satisfaction of witnessing my neighbor standing in the pouring rain, since they are still without an opener, during the Fall/Winter months opening their garage door manually while I pull right in, warm and dry. :-)

As for you, IF you choose this product, I wish you the best of luck in the installation process!

EDIT: Wow, Sept 2007 was when I first reviewed this product. I had to write another review and was scanning through, noticed that I had not updated my review. It is now August of 2011 and the same exact model has gone through thousands of opening and closings without a single problem. Power outages have not caused it to need resetting or adjusting and there have been no issues to date. Perhaps a year or so ago I popped the cover on the wall unit, blew out some dust and debris from garage projects with a simple can of compressed air, squirted a little Fluid Film (a great water free lubricant, much better than a WD-40) onto the working parts and the unit has been flawless.

All in all we are still very happy with this purchase. The initial adjustment did take some home "engineering" to make it work correctly, but once it was fine tuned to the weight and motion of my specific model of garage door, the unit has been flawless. I haven't even had to change the battery in the remote yet, but now that I think about it, I just might do it before the rainy season hits.

PS - My neighbor broke down and ordered the same unit about 3 or 4 months after I got mine installed. He did come over to see my installation and ask for some help in the final fine tuning. Now we are both happy to come home to a waiting garage when the rain is coming in sideways in the PNW wet season. :-)
79 of 87 people found the following review helpful
Great door opener....BUT........ Sept. 12 2009
By G. Giftos - Published on
Verified Purchase
I took my time in installing it and everything went fine, but I do have one problem. This opener relies on gravity to lower the door. The problem with this is that I need to raise the door all the way up so that I can use the maximum size of the door opening. If you do this, none of the door will hang below the curve on the tracks to get the door dropping. I ended up having to stop the door at least a foot below the top of the opening. This would present a problem with driving a tall item through the door (I have a truck camper we store in this building). Customer service at both the door manufacturer and at Liftmaster were of no help. Two possible solutions come to mind, but I haven't tried either of them yet. Raising the rear of the tracks so that the door is angled down in the front when it is in the track might help or a bungee cord, anchored below the halfway point in the vertical track would put some tension on the door in the upright position but not affect it when it was down. (I really hate having to do the engineering for the manufacturer). As far as I know, there is no warning about this potential problem in any description of this product. Other than this one problem (which could be serious if you need to drive a tall vehicle through the door), I find it to be an excellent product and the quietest door opening I've ever heard. It does have a quality feel to it.
26 of 27 people found the following review helpful
Works well and very quiet, but note my total costs. Oct. 23 2010
By Config Man - Published on
Verified Purchase
I have used it for a few weeks now and am very pleased with the product. I wish knew about it years ago. It is very quiet so I only hear the garage door rollers and track. I was a little surprised that I can't use the garage door more than 10 cycles per hour, but probably won't violate the restriction.
I would recommend adding the fingerprint keyless entry accessory to your cart - it works great.
I would have paid a little extra if the surge protection was integral to the opener assembly. The separate Chamberlain surge protector makes for a mess of wires around the outlet, making the outlet unusable for other things. I installed a dedicated electrical outlet near the motor.
Total "installation" took several hours, but it was a fun weekend project and I did it right. Removing the existing opener, surveying the wiring situation in the attic, and purchasing extra items, etc. accounted for much of the time.

Google "Owner's Manual GARAGE DOOR OPENER Model 3800PLD" if you want to see what I saw.
The manual is better than most, but I still have some comments.
Page 3: Preparing your garage door. Along with proper balance make sure your garage door is maintained: door screws are tight; rollers are lubricated (silicone); bearing plates are good; cables aren't frayed; etc.
Page 4: It says "Drill" but you will likely need one with a ½" chuck to handle the 3/4" bit. My corded was too small and had to use my Dewalt cordless. Also, ¾" metal bits do not come in typical bit sets - see my purchases below.
Page 5: It says 30 insulated staples and I received about 10 - not enough.
Page 6 and on: Pictures of hardware (e.g., screws) say actual size. They are not, but you should be able to interpret what they are calling for.
Page 6: Assy step 1 says to position collar screws up, but the diagram shows them facing out. It is best to install them facing up. If you install per the diagram you may need to follow step 1.4 where it says, "To allow access to the set screws it may be necessary to raise the door slightly in order to rotate the torsion bar (i.e., collar screws)."
Page 7: Instl step 1.4 says to ensure the collar does not touch bearing plate. There is no diagram describing a "bearing plate." The "bearing plate" is actually part of your garage door assembly - bent piece of sheet metal holding bearing that the torsion bar slides through. Also, it doesn't say it but slide the torsion bar into the motor shaft several inches - not just the ¾" distance of the half collar.
Page 7: Consider getting a torque wrench if you want to be careful about the 12-14 ft/lbs of torque.
Page 9: Instl step 4. Make sure you install the tension monitor high enough that it clears the door. Otherwise you may be ordering a new monitor at the outset.
Page 9: Instl step 4. I installed my LiftMaster on the right-side (looking out) so I needed to remove/replace the snap ring from the tension monitor. I happen to have a snap ring tools so this was easy. Others can use needle nose pliers and "open" rather than pinch or you can use small standard screwdriver.
Page 22: Do not confuse the opener's Purple learn (forces) button with a remote learn. When I programmed my Honda's Universal HomeLink remote I used the wall mounted "Program" (learn remote) button per the manual's instructions.

It all started after one of my garage door torsion springs broke. The failure of the torsion spring resulted in the torqueing of my garage door screw drive, making it shudder and shake every time I used it. The repairman replaced the torsion springs and recommended I replace my Genie with a Chamberlain and said my garage would be a good candidate for a LiftMaster. I have an 11 ½ ft ceiling and an 8' x 16' wood door. I installed a basketball hoop in the garage for my son and I know he occasionally hits the garage door opener so the LiftMaster seemed ideal for getting that opener contraption out of the way. It would cost about $100 to replace the screw track on my 2 year old $177 Genie so I opted to go ahead and make the leap.
I chose to spring for the keyless entry pad because I have a teenage son and his friends were always looking over his shoulder when he used the keypad entry. My wife said my son was showing his friends how cool the new fingerprint entry was the other day and one of the boys played with it a few minutes trying to get his fingerprint to work. Makes me wish the little used "Enroll" button was a covered by the protective sliding plate to discourage such curious behavior.
I also sprang for the surge protector because our neighborhood has its share of surges and I want to protect the "investment."
The deadbolt security feature is nice and I don't have to worry about burglars opening the centerline opener with a wire clothes hanger (YouTube "garage door break in").

Purchased from "Sanford and Son? Overhead Doors"
LiftMaster 3800 Residential Jackshaft Garage Door Opener; $295.95 + $4.79 S&H
Liftmaster 379LM-10 315MHz Fingerprint Keyless Entry Pad; $63.97 + $2.98 S&H
Chamberlain Liftmaster 990LM Surge Protector; $14.76

ELECTRICAL BOX (some material was on hand): $33.07 + tax
Steel outlet box; $2.58
Steel cable clamp connectors; ~$2.45
Electrical outlet (Duplex Receptacle, 15A, 125V, Commercial Grade); $5.44
12 or 14 Gauge Wire (50ft, but may need less depending on distance from splice box); ~$20
Wire connectors (25 pack); $2.60
Note: Garage door spec. says 1.0 AMP (120 Vac- 60 Hz) so 15 AMP capability more than enough.
Caution: Strongly suggest getting an electrician for this installation. I'm an engineer (e.g., meticulous) was mentored on electrical installations and have been doing this for years).

MISCELLANEOUS: $28.40 + tax
Two 23 Watt (100 Watt effective) fluorescent bulbs; $2.97
10 count "television" wire splices (for splicing into existing wall controller wire); $3.97
3/4 bit with 1/2" shank; $19.97
Insulated Staples (~50 count); $1.49
15 of 15 people found the following review helpful
A very compact, quiet little unit... March 29 2009
By Gregory R. Hunter - Published on
I've just completed installation. I've cycled the door less than 20 times, but it seems to work fine now. FYI: my door is a brand new 18' x 7' wind rated for 140MPH, which I recently installed myself. It is a huge, heavy door! I was frankly a bit skeptical of the dinky 24V, 1A motor in the Liftmaster. However, at the very top of it's arc, there's only 1.25" of clearance between the top of the door and the ceiling. No way the rail of a regular chain drive or screw drive is going to fit up there. A jackshaft opener was my only option.

My kit was well-packaged and complete. I found the instruction manual clear, well-written, and easy to understand. 5 stars for the instruction book.

Installing the opener unit was pretty straightforward and took less than an hour. It just hangs off the end of the garage door axle, with one little "L" bracket to brace the bottom of the unit against the wall. BTW: a hex bit with a long extension and a ratchet handle would have made installing the shaft coupler much easier. I used one of the little L-shaped Allen tools, and it was a real challenge to get into such a tight space.

Installing all the peripherals was not especially difficult, but it was very time-consuming. There are two electric eyes, a wall-mounted control panel, and cable tension monitor which must all be hard-wired to the door opener with long runs of doorbell wire. I was able to route my control panel wire through the attic so as to avoid a long run of exposed wire stapled to the ceiling. All this wiring takes time! Additionally, there's a wireless ceiling light that must be hung. This wireless light needs to be pretty close to a 120vac outlet.

With all the hardware finally installed, I went through the setup instructions, starting with teaching the unit the upper and lower travel limits for the door. After numerous attempts, the door still didn't work. It was balky, reversed itself often as though obstructed, and flashed error codes not listed in the book. After hours of tinkering with it, I was defeated. I gave up on setting the travel limits and tried the next step, which is teaching the opener the door opening and closing forces. Oddly enough, this worked just as the instructions said it would. Teaching it the opening/closing forces also seemed to cure the balky behavioral problems. Once it "learned" the forces necessary to move the door, it worked fine. Too bad the force learning instructions aren't listed ahead of the travel limit instructions. It would have saved me half a Saturday. Finally, I programmed my two remotes. This took only a couple of minutes. The opener has worked fine ever since.

This unit does have one very important difference from the chain or screw-driven units. The LM 3800 has no direct connection to the door. All it does is rotate the axle. This is very important to understand when you are trying to set up the travel limits. When the door is opening, no problem. The axle will wind up the cables and raise the door by force. Closing, however, is an entirely different matter. The LM 3800 closes the door by rotating the axle and putting slack on the cable--the door closes only by gravity! If your fully-open door is "resting" up on the rails, it won't close. Instead, the cables will go slack, and the cable tension monitor will stop the LM 3800. Your door must be balanced such that it will close itself by gravity alone, or the LM 3800 won't work.

Operation is very quiet compared to regular door openers. Most of the noise is actually the creaking of the door itself. The LM 3800 just sort of hums. The neat appearance is hard to beat. The unit is about the size of a half-tower PC. It sits up in the corner near the ceiling. There's no unit hanging off the middle of the ceiling, no chain or screw rail. This makes for a very clean, uncluttered, installation.

It's a cool little opener, but make sure you have the requisite skills before you take this on. I'm an avionics technician, an electronics instructor, and an experienced DIYer, and I found setup & adjustment a challenge. Programming the thing actually ate more time than hardware installation. I spent an entire Saturday morning just getting it adjusted. If you're not a skilled (and very patient!) handyman, consider hiring a pro to put this in. Really neat product though, once I finally got it working.