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Off the Rails in Phnom Penh: Into the Dark Heart of Guns, Girls and Ganja [Paperback]

Amit Gilboa
3.4 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (8 customer reviews)

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Book Description

July 1998
Phnom Penh is a city of beauty and degradation, tranquillity and violence, and tradition and transformation; a city of temples and brothels, music and gunfire, and festivals and coups.

But for many, it is simply an anarchic celebration of insanity and indulgence. Whether it is the $2 wooden shack brothels, the marijuana-pizza restaurants, the AK-47 fireworks displays, or the intricate brutality of Cambodian politics, Phnom Penh never ceases to amaze and amuse. For an individual coming from a modern Western society, it is a place where the immoral becomes acceptable and the insane becomes normal.

Amid this chaos lives an extraordinary group of foreign residents. Some are adventurers whose passion for life is given free rein in this unrestrained madhouse. Others are misfits who, unable to make it anywhere else, wallow in the decadent and inviting environment. This unparalleled first-hand account provides a fascinating, shocking, disturbing and often hilarious picture of contemporary Phnom Penh and the bizarre collection of expats who make it their home. As they search for love in the brothels or adventure on the firing range, Phnom Penh Journey follows them into the dark heart of guns, girls and ganja.


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Review

"There is a beast in all of us, but in Cambodia that beast is let out into the open," says Amit Gilboa of the country he calls a "fiction writer's dream". The Bangkok-based Gilboa's debut book, Off the Rails in Phnom Penh, is not a work of fiction, however, even though it reads like one. It is a racy, disturbing, fantastic, and sometimes funny account of the exploits of a motley group of expatriates in 1990's Phnom Penh, who spend their days visiting $2 brothels, eating ganja-topped pizzas, snorting heroin and shooting rockets at firing ranges. -- South China Morning Post, April 4, 1999. By Kavitha Rao

As a literary genre the travel narrative is often genteel to the point of yawn-inducing boredom. Maybe that's why first-time author Amit Gilboa's recent book, Off the Rails in Phnom Penh, is causing such a stir in Southeast Asia. Just one glance at the subtitle--"Into the Dark Heart of Guns, Girls, and Ganja"--tells you his hellish holiday in Cambodia will unfold more like a gonzo rant from Hunter S. Thompson than an erudite essay by Paul Theroux.

Gilboa spins a fascinating if somewhat fractured tale about a beautiful country whose people have been ravaged by decades of turmoil.

With its mix of random jottings, bizarre character sketches and diary entries, Gilboa's account plunges readers into the center of the Khmer storm. -- Time Magazine, February 1, 1999. By Jeffrey Ressner

The book is phenomenal. On a scale of the amount of muck raked it must come very high in the annals of reportage... The book...is by turns attractive, repulsive and frightening but never boring. I found it hard to put down, and will never forget it. -- The Nation, Bangkok, August 30, 1998. By Simon Johnstone

The debut work of young writer Amit Gilboa is a helter-skelter low-life travelogue through that neighboring madhouse named Phnom Penh. A book easy for old hands to dismiss as immature or nave, it's invigorating, exciting, packed full of fun and infectious youthful exuberance. -- Bangkok Metro Magazine, September 1998. By Ian Crawshaw

About the Author

Amit Gilboa was born in Israel, grew up in America, and currently lives in Bangkok. Over the past 10 years, he has studied in China, entrepreneured in Viet Nam, worked and researched in Cambodia, and written in Thailand, as well as working as a consultant in Washington, DC. Gilboa is fluent in Chinese, Khmer and Hebrew, and proficient in Thai and Vietnamese. While in Cambodia, Gilboa developed customer service training for Royal Air Cambodge, began a call-back partnership, and sold airline tickets, as well as teaching English and learning Khmer. In addition to his recent book about Cambodia, Gilboa has published numerous articles in North American magazines and newspapers. Gilboa is a 1991 graduate of Wesleyan University.

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Customer Reviews

Most helpful customer reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars Shocking and eye opening Jun 27 2004
By Laura
I read Off the Rails in Phnom Penh (great title!) a few years ago but was reminded of it recently. And I have to say that after a few years the images exposed between these covers stayed with me.

The antics Amit's expat subjects engage in are at once disgusting and riveting. I had a particularly hard time reading the sex chapter. I just never really believed people like that existed. Or if they did it was someplace wayyyy over there. Amit brings them up close and personal and shines a light on the inhumanity of Man.

At the same time though he portrays the people of Cambodia and the country as one of great beauty and profound history.

I recommend this book.

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5.0 out of 5 stars You'll love it. April 26 2004
If you're even slightly intrigued with SE Asia, you'll dig this book. It's easy to read, and you won't want to put it down.

You will undoubtedly be both shocked and sorrowed at the detailed accounts of Phnom Penh's lawlessness and filthy goings-on. Though I personally did not feel that the author, Amit Gilboa, took a high moral tone in writing this book, I see others did. I felt that given his surroundings and the utterly perverted stories to which he was made privy on an almost daily basis, he managed to remain very objective in his writing.

The big point of this book is this: Atrocities and human rights violations that are all but unthinkable in most Western countries are commonplace in Cambodia.

Anyway, just read it. You won't be disappointed.

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2.0 out of 5 stars Certainly no Hunter S. Thompson Mar 22 2004
By A Customer
While I had a couple of laughs, this book would've been a lot more fun if the author was a better storyteller. The shallow pseudo-informative bits on Cambodian culture & politics don't help either. This book should've been written by one of the lowlife drifters Gilboa tries to portray. Someone who's been shagging fourteen year olds and smoking dope for years, not by a boring business journalist. Still, it's probably a good book to carry around for backpackers hoping to strike up a conversation on the bus or the beach. Try doing that with a copy of Agrippa's Three Books of Occult Philosophy.
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