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9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes [Paperback]

Dave MacLeod , Claire MacLeod
4.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
Price: CDN$ 27.18 & FREE Shipping. Details
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Book Description

Nov. 25 2009
9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber. This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference. Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber, sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing.

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9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes + The Self-Coached Climber, With DVD + Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance
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Most helpful customer reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars Good read Sept. 1 2010
Reading the back of the book I was hoping to get more technical content-when he talks about the science of climbing. Instead it felt more like a philosophy of climbing training book. This seemed to be the intent of the author, inasmuch that there are no specific examples on which to cling on. On the up side it forces the reader to think about the ideas/concepts of training and come up with their own personalized solutions. On the down side something that would be great to see is a set of specific examples that can be use to inspire our own solutions.

Even though it reads pretty easily, some pictures and more graphs/tables would have made it a lighter read.
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Amazon.com: 4.5 out of 5 stars  24 reviews
14 of 14 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes March 5 2010
By Zachary Rubin - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
This book is not your step-by-step training guide. If you want to learn how to climb 5.12's then there are other books for that. What this book offers is a guide to shifting the way you think about climbing. Take a step back, analyze what you're doing and then consider how it can be improved or optimized. I recommend this book for anyone who is serious about advancing their climbing to it's peak level and is struggling to find coherent information on the various aspects of climbing training.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Just what I needed. June 17 2010
By Christopher M. Chilas - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
This book is great if you've been climbing for a while and train pretty hard. I've been climbing for about 3 years, climb about 3 days a week (or more if I can) and have climbed V7 outdoors (not to say that I'm awesome, but I'm not a novice). I found this book very helpful, especially in dealing training principles. It looks at overall, big picture methods, which provides a good context for looking at all sorts of other details (not provided in book necessarily).

In short, this book does a god job (in my opinion) of looking at the big picture of training for climbing.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Unconventional format, but excellent Sept. 14 2011
By P. Van Der Meer - Published on Amazon.com
I've only read one other book on climbing, but I've read course material and I tend to keep up with the magazines on Alpinism and rock climbing. In any case, I think this book is one of the best pieces of climbing literature I've come across.

The format is highly unconventional. It's not the typical five-step guide to fame and fortune in which you should follow absolutely everything the author tells you to. This one also mentions the mistakes most climbers commonly make and starts with the most important. As such, it's that much more believable, and also much more recognisable. It guides you from all your malpractices into the realm of the most technically skilled rock climbers.

I've only read half of it, but I've already had a dozen of moments where I went ", if only I knew this earlier...". The primary focus of the book is on psychology and technique. Not surprising, since these form two-thirds of the climbing experience.

There are a couple of drawbacks like the large scale absence of pictures (to explain the movements), and this book is definitely not for the beginning climber: you should have spent a few hundred times in the climbing hall or on the rock (and you should be able to visualise and feel movements being explained). If this is you, and you have been barking up the wrong tree for a while, this book is for you!
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Wow, this is a book i wish i read sooner Sept. 8 2011
By Jake - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
Honestly this is best "how to be a better climber" book i have read. This book literally smacks you in the face with the obvious flaws in your training and climbing and tells you how to fix them. I recommend this to EVERY climber from a beginner to the top pros. If you have just started i might say wait till you have been climbing for 6 months before you read this.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Changed my climbing for the better May 21 2011
By cm - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
His notes about how to see and understand climbing are invaluable.

The fear of falling bit is also really important and often underrated in importance and impact.
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