Pattern Magic [Paperback]

It has been a long time since I have found a pattern making book that I have found as exciting as this book.

Once you get beyond the basics of creating patterns that fit, commonly called slopers, what do you do with them? Most designs I see on the street, in catalogs, and in the stores are so easy to execute that the design process is not challenging at all.

But there are a few designs that have me scratching my head thinking "How did they do that?" I have taken to calling them "Pattern Puzzles." This book is full of these designs. Each one is uniquely different but beautifully illustrated and explained in anywhere from one to three page spreads. Tomoko never takes more than three pages of illustrations to show how to make even the most complex and unusual design from a fitted sloper.

I am pleased to see her using the front bodice sloper for women that I now use in my online patternmaking classes. It has one dart for the bust to the waist and one to the armscye (arm hole). In my experience this configuration for the darts provides the optimum way of achieving an accurate custom fit. I also believe it is the best sloper for visualizing how to create the lines of original designs so you can convert from a two dimensional form to a three dimensional one.

She uses a technique for evaluating pattern shapes that I have found invaluable in my teaching which is to prototype design ideas in paper so you can assemble the shape before you even touch needle and thread.

Tomoko also shares another passion of mine for developing design ideas using dress forms in scale. All the photos in this book are of the designs on a half scale manikin.

Caveat #1: These designs are unusual. If you are looking for the conventional, this is not for you. But if you step beyond "I wouldn't want to wear that" and move on to "What can I learn from this pattern design technique," I believe you will increase your pattern design skills exponentially.

Caveat #2: There are no sewing instructions. I would recommend when you try these ideas out you do what Tomoko does and try them in scale first. If you don't have a scale dress form, fashion dolls such as the ones Tomoko works with are an excellent medium to experiment with.

Bravo Tomoko--I can hardly wait until your volume 2 is translated into English. Although your illustrations are so clear, I am almost tempted to get the Japanese edition.

Don McCunn
Author of How to Make Sewing Patterns

I am not sure why I bought this book since I do not sew anymore (arthritis) and I do not particularly like to look at or to wear modern Japanese clothing. The cover caught my eye, I guess. I have always been curious about the structure of some of the more complicated Japanese designs. This is an amazing book. The clothing is amazing, if largely unwearable, but could be the springboard for your own interesting designs. Many of the ideas could be adapted to Western clothing.

Even though I have 60 years sewing experience and a tech degree in pattern design, I don't think that I could readily draft or adapt any of the patterns, not to mention making most of them. While there is ample information about drafting the pattern, there is no instruction about sewing the garment, appropriate understructure, interfacing etc. The notation on the patterns is a little different that what I was taught so I found it a little confusing. One generally needs to sew a complicated garment in a specific sequence that is not given in the book. If one is going to make the dress on page 55, for example, out of a "soft woolen georgette", one is going to need to underline and interline. That is not mentioned. I suppose a seasoned pro would know. Have plenty of muslin on hand if you try these garments.

The book is not for beginners. If you are very experienced with pattern drafting and sewing, go for it. If you are not, buy the book and admire the skill and ingenuity that has gone into drafting these patterns and making these garments. I would call this a sewing equivalent of a beautiful coffee table book, hardly practical but very interesting and, perhaps, inspirational. Four stars for the inspiration. While I know that pattern books rarely mention these things, I subtracted a star for the lack of information regarding structure and construction since these designs are so very complex.

Brilliant book. You must know how to sew and have some experience to truly take advantage of this book. If you are into patterning you will love it because it takes you in an incredibly creative and unusual direction. I thought I knew how to move darts and then I read this book!