Pintxos: Small Plates in the Basque Tradition [Hardcover]

I suppose the two authors of this book cover themselves to some degree by using the words 'in the Basque tradition' in the subtitle, but I was rather expecting a look at variations on dishes that are either actually currently served in Spain, or that else have been traditionally prepared in older Basque cookery. Some recipes *do* specify that a given recipe is fairly typical of restaurants in certain Spanish communities (and some are otherwise immediately recognizable as typical Tapas dishes) but the bulk seem to be creations of Gerald Hirigoyen that were just merely 'inspired' by his experiences of Basque cuisine. As is noted in the introductory text, many cuisines have equivalents to Pintxos and, in the final analysis, I have to really wonder why this book can really be any more about the Basque variation of the appetizer than, say, Meze, Zakuski or plain old Hors-d'oeuvres. I like many of the recipes I read, and will certainly try some, but I really wanted a book that educated me about Pintxos actually offered in Basque-country. I do not believe I got that here. I rather think that this book is an unfortunate collaboration between a good chef who cannot write and a good writer who does not understand food (or foodies) very well.

Oh, finally.... if one is going to include pictures in a book (and the ones in this volume are technically and artistically excellent), then why (OH WHY???) not make them pictures of the actual dishes instead of the graphically pleasing, but largely irrelevant images that accompany the various recipes? I might have given 4 stars if the authors/publishers had followed this simple idea.

Gerald Hirigoyen is from San Sebastien, that beautiful Atlantic coast town on the little crook neck between France and Spain. It is neither. It is Basque, from the striped colored cloth to the bright red pepper. Stay there and take pleasant day drives over to Bilbao (see the Guggenheim) and to Biarritz (19th century playground of Europe). Authentic Basque cookbooks are the devil to come by. This one rhymes well and is honest to the ham bone. If you want a book to drive a long or even a short party, come hither. Beginners welcome. Experts will find their nuggets.

This is a fine collection of Basque inspired tapas (for pintxos just say PEEN-chos) recipes, nicely organized and with wine parings. From griddle, beans, fried bites, little sandwiches, bites on bread, stews and braises, soups, salads to the skewers from which the book gets it's name (pinchers) these are treats. The back of the book offers recipes for panty items to have at your ready like piperade and basic sauces. You get a simple explanation of vinegars with a reduction tip to make moscatel vinegar as a usable substitute for aged (sweet sixteen plus) balsamic. Most balsamic we see is too young for anything but salad.

The Basque dinner hours are late and long. You cannot be fooling with complex timing and rigidity. This is food to ignite your party and fuel it through the wee hours. From "Figs Marinated in Sherry with Aged Goat Cheese and Basil", "Baby Beets, Cucumbers, Olives and Feta Skewers," "Caramelized Onions with Idiazabal Cheese", "Seared beef with Piquillo Pepper and Shallot Jam", to "Chicken Skewers with Yogurt-Mint Dipping Sauce" and "Duck Breast with Oranges and Green Olives".

The "Tomato and Watermelon Salad" sounds dissonant, but just taste the cucumber, avocado, herbs, vinegar and olive oil. These recipes are well written and easy to follow. Such recipes are a good introduction to cooking for the less experienced who need not feel intimidated to try; and for the 20-30 year old crowd who want something easy and tasty when you invite friends over without having to spend the day in the kitchen or spend a lot on money on dinner.

For those above thirty, this is the serious working part of the book. When we want to carry a stew that is new to all, look here. A pot, a ladle and a stack of bowls carry the day. No need to serve hot from the hob. Same with soups.

I have been pleased, usually, by the publications from Ten Speed Press in Berkeley. The pages are crisply and functionally laid out for us. The photography is not overbearing. The book is durably bound and made from heavy stock and seemingly, acid-free paper.

While every review so far has the word "Basque" in it, the book isn't just Basque. Hirigoyen has french training and runs two restaurants in California, so there are some dishes here that you wouldn't find looking at restaurants in Northern Spain. One dish is essentially duck l'orange with olives thrown in, and there's a calamari dish with black-eyed peas; both recipes speak to how much his dishes are informed by his biography. I like these dishes however, and the more traditional tapas you can find there as well. I only draw the line at "Scallops with Lychee Gazpacho" which was sickly sweet and evoked no landscape or culture in particular. The bottom line though is that I'm a self-taught amateur cook, but I felt like I could tackle most of these small dishes. The only challenge is really hunting down ingredients. Trader Joe's carries some common ingredients like piquillo and guindilla peppers, but you really need a Spanish specialty store nearby to get full coverage for the recipes which call for piment d'espelllette, choricero peppers and ventresca tuna. I review the book with more detail and humor at: [...]