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In exploring living foods, I've found other chefs' approaches to be too raw (salads, salads and more salads) or too intent on emulating cooked foods (nut loaf, seed cheese, sprouted breads). Frequently raw chefs deliver recipes that are variations of these same basic themes. This book transcends all of that.
Even when I'm preparing something that resembles a raw food basic, e.g. a soup made from fruit/vegetable juice, the results when following Charlie and Roxanne's recipes are completely different than expected, complex, layered, with lots of nuance to appreciate. The asparagus soup is a delectable example of this. Another is Roxanne's signature appetizer at her restaurant and opening recipe in this book, the Wakame Sushi Rolls. Many people dabbling or dedicated to living foods will likely have seen raw sushi rolls, in which soaked crushed nuts or ground root vegetable take the place of the rice in the roll. In Roxanne's version, the spice/vinegar/honey addition to ground parsnips is truly unique and lifts the raw sushi roll out of the reliance on nuts.
The most relevant grumble I have with the book: there are several dishes which require the preparation of four to seven distinct recipes. The Wakame Sushi rolls consist of four recipes plus the dicing/slicing of roll veggies. The Tacos Three Ways is the most egregious example I've noticed, with eight recipes in total to deliver the dish as written. Still, there are several dishes that are a straight, single recipe or two. And, of course, each of us is free to make tacos "one way" instead of three or otherwise omit and substitute. The Wakame rolls are plenty tasty even without the Wasabi mayonnaise or chiffonade cut Nori decorating the plate. Also, you will find that some of the component recipes are wonderful on other creations of your own making, e.g. the mushroom sauce and wild mushroom ragout used on something other than the raw-corn polenta.
You don't have to be a living foods enthusiast or zealot to appreciate the flavors, textures and experience that result from these recipes. Charlie Trotter is proof of that. But you will need the equipment that is standard among living foodies if you want to do anything more than dabble in these recipes. In order of priority, you will need a food processor, blender, juicer, dehydrator, and jars/trays for soaking and sprouting.
I've made ten dishes from this book, some several times already, and have been surprised, delighted and even amazed with the results. And my guests have been similarly pleased. Thanks to the nuance and layers of flavors, each preparation has been worth the effort.
This cookbook provides the answers, but may not give readers quite all the information they need to pull off similar culinary miracles at home. The lean prose is sometimes less than communicative: for example, she tells us to allow her cashew cheese to "ripen" for 12 hours, but gives no clue to the smell, texture, or taste that lets us know when ripeness has been achieved. The same is true for her rejuvelac recipe. One is left to cook by the numbers.
More information about the preparation and acquisition of the exotic ingredients she uses would also have been nice. It's hard to imagine that most people know how to open a young coconut, much less how to extract the flesh in such a way that it can be julienned. Recommended substitutions for the specific mushrooms, chiles, fruits and sea-vegetables she uses would also be helpful. On the other hand, most readers of gourmet cookbooks are used to a little creative participation when it comes to realizing a fancy dish, and her plating, portion and flavor concepts leave plenty of room for flexibility.
Finally, a word about equipment: while any ice-cream maker will work, and most dehydrators could be adapted with the use of a silpat or a cake liner, the expensive mixer she recommends really is helpful. Although she claims, rather hesitantly, that you can use your food processor or ordinary blender to puree the raw nuts and vegetables for her sauces and soups, my experience has not born this out--and my blender has shot out sparks.
All in all, this book is likely to appeal most to people who often buy lavish, coffee-table gourmet cookbooks--but is likely to be most useful to people already grounded in raw cookery. Still, if you don't mind experimenting, making mistakes, and learning as you go, there's plenty here to intrigue and inspire.
I have been "raw" for well over a year and have been consistently dismayed by the lack of exciting and delicious recipes. Even so-called gourmet books (like Julianno's overly celebrated "Raw: the Un-cook book") are little more than a bunch of ingredients clumsily thrown together in a barage of contrasting flavors. In the hands of Trotter & Klein, however, raw cuisine has finally risen above crunch salads and the hard core health approach. These recipes are an exquisite interplay of flavors and textures... fresh, surprising and perfectly balanced. I've been thrilled with each of the creations I've tried so far!
One nice thing about this collaboration is that it presents raw food at its beautiful, sublime best. No heavy handed propoganda, health warnings or "holier than thou" approach. The gorgeous photos and recipes speak for themselves. Klein's introduction sums up the raw approach to life simply and succinctly.
As a professionally trained chef, I am the first to admit this book is not for everyone. It has a great format and layout with stunning photographs on every page. And while most of the recipes seem fairly straight forward to me, there is little here that one could throw together quickly for dinner. Trotter is well-known for his amazing palate and fairly complex approach to food (though he still considers it keeping things simple!). Like most fine food, several of the recipes have numerous stages, steps and sauces; many of the ingredients seem a bit obscure to those who aren't "foodies". None of Trotter's books are for the novice and RAW proves no exception.
If you're new to raw cuisine, this probably isn't the book for you. Be advised that all the recipes are vegan (no animal or dairy products). If you're at the level where you want to spend some serious time in the kitchen to dazzle your senses - or perhaps entertain and present some spectacular raw food to friends! - then look no further. It doesn't get any better than this, folks.
Bon appetit!
The talented kitchen team and service staff at Roxanne's orchestrate a grand symphony... Read more
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