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River Town: Two Years on the Yangtze
 
 

River Town: Two Years on the Yangtze [Hardcover]

Peter Hessler
4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (110 customer reviews)

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In 1996, 26-year-old Peter Hessler arrived in Fuling, a town on China's Yangtze River, to begin a two-year Peace Corps stint as a teacher at the local college. Along with fellow teacher Adam Meier, the two are the first foreigners to be in this part of the Sichuan province for 50 years. Expecting a calm couple of years, Hessler at first does not realize the social, cultural, and personal implications of being thrust into a such radically different society. In River Town: Two Years on the Yangtze, Hessler tells of his experience with the citizens of Fuling, the political and historical climate, and the feel of the city itself.

"Few passengers disembark at Fuling ... and so Fuling appears like a break in a dream--the quiet river, the cabins full of travelers drifting off to sleep, the lights of the city rising from the blackness of the Yangtze," says Hessler. A poor city by Chinese standards, the students at the college are mainly from small villages and are considered very lucky to be continuing their education. As an English teacher, Hessler is delighted with his students' fresh reactions to classic literature. One student says of Hamlet, "I don't admire him and I dislike him. I think he is too sensitive and conservative and selfish." Hessler marvels,

You couldn't have said something like that at Oxford. You couldn't simply say: I don't like Hamlet because I think he's a lousy person. Everything had to be more clever than that ... you had to dismantle it ... not just the play itself but everything that had ever been written about it.
Over the course of two years, Hessler and Meier learn more they ever guessed about the lives, dreams, and expectations of the Fuling people.

Hessler's writing is lovely. His observations are evocative, insightful, and often poignant--and just as often, funny. It's a pleasure to read of his (mis)adventures. Hessler returned to the U.S. with a new perspective on modern China and its people. After reading River Town, you'll have one, too. --Dana Van Nest

From Publishers Weekly

In China, the year 1997 was marked by two momentous events: the death of Deng Xiaoping, the country's leader for two decades, and the return of Hong Kong after a century and a half of British rule. A young American who spent two years teaching English literature in a small town on the Yangtze, Hessler observed these events through two sets of eyes: his own and those of his alter ego, Ho Wei. Hessler sees China's politics and ceremony with the detachment of a foreigner, noting how grand political events affect the lives of ordinary people. The passing of Deng, for example, provokes a handful of thoughtful and unexpected essays from Hessler's students. The departure of the British from Hong Kong sparks a conversational "Opium War" between him and his nationalist Chinese tutor. Meanwhile, Ho Wei, as Hessler is known to most of the townspeople, adopts a friendly and unsophisticated persona that allows him to learn the language and culture of his surroundings even as Hessler's Western self remains estranged. The author conceives this memoir of his time in China as the collaborative effort of his double identity. "Ho Wei," he writes, "left his notebooks on the desk of Peter Hessler, who typed everything into his computer. The notebooks were the only thing they truly shared." Yet it's clear that, for Hessler, Ho Wei is more than a literary device: to live in China, he felt compelled to subjugate his real identity to a character role. Hessler has already been assured the approval of a select audience thanks to the New Yorker's recent publication of an excerpt. (Feb.)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

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I CAME TO FULING on the slow boat downstream from Chongqing. Read the first page
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Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Back Cover
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110 Reviews
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Average Customer Review
4.7 out of 5 stars (110 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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6 of 6 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars An excellent, apolitical piece, July 19 2004
By 
This review is from: River Town (Paperback)
This is a brilliant book. This young man came to China with an open mind and is fundamentally different from much of the young expatriate population here, both in terms of his intellingence and his goals in coming. (Typical personalities: "I'm a Loser Back at Home, but when I come to China I'm a Big Man on Mulberry Street." Another: "I'm Young and Bored and Trying to Convince Myself That There is a Communist Revolution Somewhere.")

Some books that have been written have also tried specifically to address the political issues of this vast country. It is more interesting to someone who is not a professional protestor/ academic to see what happens in practice when some of the Romanticized Sacred Cows of Academics are implemented in Real Life (see: Communism, Authoritarianism, Big Government). This is also not taken from the perspective of people that are constantly whining about Human Rights.

In my opinion, the author does a good job of not reinterpreting China in terms of some of these Sacred Cows, be they of whoever.

The prose is clear, elegant and not overwrought with detail. But the reading is not overly light, either. It's just the things that any person would think about if they came here to teach. Or that any person might want to know if they wanted a perspective of China independent of political slants of any type.

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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Well written, readable, personable and genuine, May 9 2003
By 
Eric Langager (Beijing, China) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   
This review is from: River Town (Paperback)
Without argument, the most casual observer of China over the past thirty years would have to acknowledge that this country has been marked by very significant change. Having a passion for history, and a keen interest in the history of China, I tend to evaluate books based on their value as history. Every time I contemplate the hours of time that will be consumed if I set about to read a given book, I ask, "How will this book enhance my understanding of the history of modern China?" Well, this book is not an exploration of the past, it is a simple observation of a single moment in time by one who lived through it. As history, this book is not strong. But as sociology, it is exceptional. Current sociology is future history, so in that sense, this book is very useful for the purposes I have mentioned. So I read it. Now I must point out that China is a very diverse society. Perhaps it would be more accurate to say that China is really a collection of societies. This book is not, by any means, a general statement about life in China. It is the story of life in one small community. But that's OK, because it never pretends to be anything else.

Really, this book is a testimony to the value of paying attention. I am sure that many folks living and working in situations similar to Peter Hessler's would have their own stories to tell. But so often we are fooled by the seeming ordinariness of our own mundane existence. So we live our lives endlessly, day by day without writing the story. Listen to me: If your life isn't worth writing a book about, you're doing something wrong. Change. Move. Do something. But become someone or be in the process of becoming someone that decent folks would really enjoy reading about some day. My highest commendation to Peter Hessler for this more than anything else.

The basic plot of the story is quite simple: A graduate student joins the Peace Corps, and teaches for two years in a Chinese university. What is especially useful about this book depends, I suppose, on your particular frame of reference, and on your needs, but for me, the book was most interesting as a very personal and honest description of how one person responded to the culture shock inherent in the cultural transition described. My parents were missionaries in northern Japan; that is where I grew up. For me, the most profound culture shock was when I came to America at the age of 13. I was, therefore, quite interested to see how this idealistic graduate student would respond to his own cultural adjustment. At times, he seems almost to have a "chip on his shoulder," but much of this is because of his simple honesty about how he is feeling at the particular moment. And I can hardly blame him for taking the pellet gun away from the kid who shot him in cold blood. Hessler talks very openly about feelings most of us would rather not admit we have at moments like that.

By far the most appealing part of this book for me, however, was the insight that it gave me into the nature of rural teacher training in China. Years ago I taught in a country school in North Dakota. I traveled to Yunnan Province some time ago, and participated in a benefit project where we donated some computers to a country school. I have a special interest in rural education, and the importance of giving kids in that kind of setting the same quality education that would be available to them if they lived a bit closer to the city. And the simple straightforwardness of the country young people who are the students in this University is so refreshing to anyone who has been frustrated with the way the American obsession with information has stuffed the minds of so many young people with all kinds of things they don't need to be worrying about so early in their lives. The sophisticated cynicism this too often causes is so wonderfully absent from the thinking of Peter Hessler's students.

I learned quite a bit from this book. Reading it was time well spent. I think even for those who do not have a particular interest in China, this book would be very attractive. But for those who are contemplating a life in China, it is definitely required reading. If you like people, you will like this book.

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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Worth ten stars!, May 25 2008
By 
Thinks-he's-an-expert Bill (Cambridge, Ontario) - See all my reviews
(TOP 500 REVIEWER)   
I am not surprised that there are over one hundred reviews of River Town. It is a superb book. If I could I would give it ten stars. The best book I have read in years.

Much is written by others about this book. It is a piece of narrative non-fiction. As such it reads like a novel. A real page turner!

My wife is Chinese. I have spent some time in China. But at a different place (Guangxi province) and time (ten years later). I certainly share Mr. Hessing's attitude towards the hospitality and friendliness of the Chinese people. As he mentions: it is hard to imagine that very many Americans (or Canadians) would invite an odd foreigner into their home after meeting him on the street for the first time. Although I don't speak Chinese they made me feel warm and comfortable in their homes. Mr. Hessing learned to speak Chinese and had an even richer experience for it.

In all the saber rattling towards China, few North Americans seem to appreciate that the Chinese are normal people with hopes and aspirations like all of us. Communism does not change that. This book paints a picture of common Chinese folks. It is required reading for anyone interested in Chinese sociology or, for that matter, anyone interested in a good read. Perhaps Mr. Hessing is the Dashan for the common folk (just joking Mr. Hessing!).
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