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Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide [Paperback]

Craig Luebben
5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
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Book Description

Dec 15 2006 Mountaineers Outdoor Expert
"Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen," says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors.

This entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.

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Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide + Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills + Mountaineering Freedom Of the Hills: 50th Anniversary 1960 - 2010,  8th Edition
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Review

"The classic text on mountain climbing... this is the book to read if you plan to venture out to the high places people go because they're there."

About the Author

CRAIG LUEBBEN guided professionally for more than twenty-five years. The author of Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills and additional climbing titles, Craig also worked as a climbing guide and freelance climbing writer; writing pieces for magazines such as Climbing and Rock & Ice. Craig died in a tragic climbing accident in August of 2009 while climbing the Torment-Forbidden Traverse route, a mile-long Grade III rock and ice route that connects Mount Torment and Forbidden Peak. As a well respected member of the climbing community - via his writing and instruction - he is missed deeply by all who knew him.

Inside This Book (Learn More)
First Sentence
One of the beauties of rock climbing is its amazing diversity. Read the first page
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Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Index | Back Cover
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Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
Extremely detailed with a strong bent toward redundancy in anchor building, this book is suitable for trad climbers who climb at crags with some multi-pitch. It covers safe construction of anchors of every concevable type, but where is really stands out is with it's detailed descriptions of gear placements. Not instructive on climbing techniques such as rope work, efficiency and speed. The best instructive book I've found for new trad climbers who want to place protection safely.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
Amazon.com: 4.7 out of 5 stars  37 reviews
24 of 24 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Best Anchors Book on the Market!!!! Feb. 11 2007
By climbing prof - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback
Wow!!! That was literally the first word that popped into my head as I started reading this book. The number and quality of photos BLOWS away any other comparable book. It looks like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it THE BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations. As we all know, "a picture is worth a thousand words." And, in this case, a picture could be worth your life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below:

- Luebben's mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging.

- He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces.

- There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations.

- Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings.

- Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations.

- All of the above factors make Luebben's book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market.

- According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben's experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps - that's pretty cool!

Bottom line...even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Comprehensive and current! June 9 2007
By David G. Lottmann - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
Very current and well organized book! Craig Luebben has obviously absorbed the new anchoring concepts that have cropped up recently and has helped me understand the advantages and disadvantages to each new method. A better book in my opinion than John Long's new anchor book. Nicely illustrated and un-biased, this is the book I am recommending to my immediate/advanced clients. -Dave Lottmann, EMS Climbing Guide
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Best book on anchors May 12 2008
By B. Olsen - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback
I've been working my way into lead climbing and this is my favorite book on climbing anchors. After taking many classes and climbing with "old schoolers", the book really solidified what I had already learned and taught me many new modern techniques and "tricks". I also appreciate that the book presents the science behinds all the various anchor setups. Although there are hundreds of B&W photos, on occasion they are hard to decipher when showing complex setups. Climbing Anchors (second edition) by Long and Gaines is also an excellent book and covers the same material. Having read both has helped me tremendously!
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars THE Anchor Building Book! May 14 2007
By Sonya D. Becker - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback
I've read all the anchor building books and so far, I have found this one to be the best one. Easy to understand, backed up by testing, lots of pictures (a picture speaks a thousand words!), a well-written guide!

I highly recommend this to all climbers out there!
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Better than the John Long book Sept. 23 2009
By Pete H - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
I bought both this book and John Long's current Climbing Anchors book, and I've read them both cover to cover. This is definitely the better written of the two --- it's much clearer and easier to understand! If you have to buy only one Anchors book, I'd recommend this one.
That said, I think Long gives a slightly better treatment of a couple of topics, such as the Equalette, so I'm glad I bought both.
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