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Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen
 
 

Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen [Hardcover]

David Sax
5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (2 customer reviews)

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Save the Deli, by Canadian-born, Brooklyn-based journalist David Sax, should come with a warning: may induce cravings for smoked-meat sandwiches, sour pickles, and chewy rye. Sax’s passion for Jewish food emanates from the pages of Save the Deli, just as the flavour of salt, garlic, and secret spices exude from the delicacies he describes. Sax is a man on a mission. Jewish delis are in decline, threatened with extinction. His battle cry: if the delis vanish, we lose a vital part of Jewish identity. Sax’s passion for deli food that is to die for (literally) is the legacy of his grandfather. “Poppa” Sam died two years before Sax’s birth “by way of a smoked meat sandwich” with extra speck (seasoned slices of pickled fat), which he enjoyed at Schwartz’s deli in Montreal – immediately after a hospital stay for angina. According to Sax, Poppa Sam “died as he lived – in love with Jewish delicatessen.” That passion is Sax’s birthright. Save the Deli is a book for readers with an appetite. The reader accompanies Sax as he taste-tests his way through Jewish delis in Montreal and Toronto, coast-to-coast in the U.S., as well as in London, Paris, and Krakow. He takes readers behind the counter to learn the secrets of making the perfect pastrami sandwich (which is not as easy as it looks). Archival photographs of legendary delis add poignancy, and two indexes, a glossary of Yiddish food terms, and a listing of delis Sax visited for research will be useful for readers of any background. Sax’s prose sports a lively, haymishe (warm, homey) style, marred only by occasional confused comparisons: “Like snowflakes … no two pastramis are exactly alike.”  Snowflakes and pastrami? Just say nu. Nonetheless, Save the Deli reminds us that eating that perfect pastrami on rye is, for many Jews, tantamount to internalizing and preserving a piece of their history.  As Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl describes a classic deli sandwich in the book, “it’s fat and salt and sweet…. How could you not like it?”  The same is true of this meaty book.

Review

"David Sax is the MFK Fisher of pickled meats. After Save the Deli, you’ll never take a pastrami sandwich for granted again. You’ll also be moved by Sax’s wonderful portrayal of the folks behind the counters, and their fascinating thoughts on cultural identity, the relentless passage of time — and, of course, kreplach."
— A.J. Jacobs, author of The Know-it-All and The Year of Living Biblically

“Nobody this young should be so smart or know so much about delicatessens. He may go down in history as a Jewish hero, the man who saved rye bread. The kid knows how to eat and he knows how to write. You can't ask for more than that, although a glass of cream soda is always nice.”
— Alan Richman, author of Fork It Over: The Intrepid Adventures of a Professional Eater

“[A] passionate manifesto … intensely evocative.”
— Jane and Michael Stern, authors of Roadfood

“A Bromo-fueled cri de coeur on behalf of the uniquely Ashkenazic food that keeps its devotees … from going goyish into that good night.”
— Michael Wex, author of Just Say Nu

“An epic journey, akin to the Odyssey but with Rolaids.”
— Roger Bennett, author of Bar Mitzvah Disco

"What if they gave a pastrami on rye and nobody came? Unthinkable? That's what you think. David Sax knows better, and traces the history of the American (and Canadian. And British!) deli — its arrival, its rise, its potential fall, its possible salvation — with passion, humor, chutzpah, and tam. Enjoy."
— Ellis Weiner, author of Yiddish with Dick and Jane

"A delightful tour of Jewish delicatessens across the nation and abroad, David Sax opens a necessary discussion about the very future of those beloved, yet dwindling, institutions. Save the Deli is a great read."
— Ed Koch

“David Sax’s book on delicatessens is an important work. The food is an important part of the Jewish culture. We could not have grown up without it. I totally enjoyed our interview and I must say that the book is a great read for anyone, from the culture conscious to the foodies.”
— Fyvush Finkel, (Yiddish theater legend, actor Picket Fences and Boston Public)

"Just the thought of a book dedicated to the history and cultural importance of Jewish Deli makes my mouth water. And who better to take on the project than passionate writer and adventurer David Sax. His knowledge and experience make him the perfect man for the job. Without a bible like this how will our next generation of eaters know the delight and pure satisfaction of biting into that perfect pastrami on rye, smothered in mustard and accompanied by a full-sour dill pickle?"
— Gail Simmons, editor Food and Wine and judge on "Top Chef"

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Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Index
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars social commentary served on crusty rye, Oct 11 2009
This review is from: Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen (Hardcover)
i just finished a wonderful and enlightening read. i enjoyed immensely learning about a cultural history with insightful social commentary, carefully disguised as a book about the history of delis. i now know where to get great deli all accross north america and in parts of europe. bonus. i hope to read more from david sax often.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Eat the deli, Dec 13 2009
By 
Simon Weisman (Toronto, Ontario Canada) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   
This review is from: Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen (Hardcover)
I read David Sax' book after a visit to the Carnegie deli on 7th Avenue and the consumption there of a great big pastrami sandwich, that matched perfectly David's description. David introduces historical and cultural details that help one truly appreciate the subject. It is a passionate account of the state of the deli, deserving to be read by all who eat. Just imagine, through this reading, you can enjoy deli without the risk of getting fat, provided you also take regular walks. David's book will help you find a good deli around the corner or around the world. What? You have never tried deli? Get the book, read it, and get thee to the deli.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
Amazon.com: 4.4 out of 5 stars (54 customer reviews)

16 of 17 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars Cutting against the grain, Sep 2 2009
By korova - Published on Amazon.com
Pre-release customer review from the Amazon Vine™ Program
New Yorkers are going to hate this book. Not only does it name the two best cities for deli as Los Angeles (all true New Yorkers can't stand LA, especially transplants who have to live or work there) and Montréal (CANADA? Huh??), it was written by a guy from Toronto. How can NYC not be the undisputed Deli Capital of the World? And what does a Canadian know from deli, anyway?

The answer is this: David Sax is on a mission. It's right there--it's the title of the book! Sax has traveled the world in search of the best of Jewish delicatessen culture and food. Believe me, Sax knows just about all there is to know about the deli classics everybody is familiar with, like pastrami, bagels, and knishes, as well as about hardcore Jewish soul food, such as p'tcha, kishke, and cholent. He's eaten more deli than you can possibly imagine. He knows what he's talking about.

Sax keeps the tone light and entertaining for the most part, even though Save the Deli serves up generous helpings of history, food criticism, and travel writing. The only (minor) flaw in the text is that Sax hasn't woven the chapters into a flowing and coherent whole very well. Some sections end abruptly, while others feel somewhat disconnected from the material that follows. This may stem from his background as a magazine writer. Nonetheless, the book is enjoyable and fun to read overall.

Bottom line: Save the Deli is a combination travelogue, tribute, and polemic. While Sax's aim is serious, he leavens his writing with a great deal of humor and sensitivity. Anybody who loves corned beef on rye with lots of mustard, always stops for fresh rugelach, or is just a dedicated fresser will dig this book. Maybe New Yorkers will too, when all is said and done. 3.5 stars rounded up to 4 for daring to buck the conventional wisdom about NYC delis.

[a personal note: for those who think Canada can't possibly have good deli, I have four words for you. Smoked meat. Montréal bagels. `Nuff said.]

------
Two books in a similar vein to this one:
Eat This!: 1,001 Things to Eat Before You Diet-eat your way across the United States
The Man Who Ate Everything-pompous and pretentious, yet utterly compelling

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Mouthwatering Memoir of Jewish Delis, Oct 3 2009
By A. Silverstone - Published on Amazon.com
Pre-release customer review from the Amazon Vine™ Program
David Sax has produced a book that induced hunger pangs every time I sat down to read a chapter. His primary mission is to identify the surviving (and hopefully thriving) Jewish deli today, both in the epicenter of the Deli Universe - New York - but also in select cities around the US, and even some in Europe. However, Sax also sets the historical context, describing the rise of Deli culture to the peek of the golden age in the 40s and 50s and then the inevitable decline. Alternately, Sax is mourning the disappearance of the Jewish deli and celebrating islands of thriving deli culture that he finds in both expected (Los Angeles) and unexpected (Boulder) cities. There is much description of the different pickling processes to produce pastrami and corned beef, comparisons of matzoh ball soup, and the Pavlovian descriptions of the less well-known, but more arterial clogging speck (pickled brisket fat), kishke (schmaltz-stuffed intestine) and grine (chicken skin cracklings). To help out, Sax includes both a glossary, and a listing of all the delis he visited. Although there is much to mourn in the passing of so many delis, there is reason to snap on your bib and head out to find the still-surviving and newly inaugurated delis that are true to the time-tested techniques of food preparation that produce sandwiches to die for.

8 of 9 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars Bright tastes and dark shadows, Aug 27 2009
By NewDiane "I live to read!" - Published on Amazon.com
Pre-release customer review from the Amazon Vine™ Program
David Sax has a passion for deli, and he's willing to travel the world, literally, to find it. No dish is too exotic, which reminds me of Anthony Bourdain, but while Bourdain explores all culinary bases, David Sax sticks to the rib-sticking food of his youth. He gives a good picture of all the people he meets, and their quirks, but his descriptions of the food will really make you drool. Better have a can of Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda on hand while you read this!

There is plenty of humor, but a darker side, too, as he considers an exhibit of cooking pots at Birkenau, a [...] extermination camp, and reflects on how Jewish cooking was decimated by the Holocaust. He explores Poland, where some people, Jews and non-Jews alike, are attempting to reanimate the cuisine.

He finds plenty of people as devoted to deli as he is, people who prepare it, serve it, eat it and talk about it with gusto. He explores the history of the foods, the preparation and the short-cuts (such as instant corned beef, at which he practically sneers).

There are some charming photographs of delicatessens and the people who maintain them, but I would really have liked some recipes. Although there is a list of delicatessens, and a glossary for people who don't know what all these dishes are, it would have been absolutely terrific to have some basic recipes for the home cook to try.

If you've never tried delicatessen, try reading this book. It may well give you an appetite!
 Go to Amazon.com to see all 54 reviews  4.4 out of 5 stars 
 
 
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