Quill & Quire
Save the Deli, by Canadian-born, Brooklyn-based journalist David Sax, should come with a warning: may induce cravings for smoked-meat sandwiches, sour pickles, and chewy rye. Sax’s passion for Jewish food emanates from the pages of
Save the Deli, just as the flavour of salt, garlic, and secret spices exude from the delicacies he describes. Sax is a man on a mission. Jewish delis are in decline, threatened with extinction. His battle cry: if the delis vanish, we lose a vital part of Jewish identity. Sax’s passion for deli food that is to die for (literally) is the legacy of his grandfather. “Poppa” Sam died two years before Sax’s birth “by way of a smoked meat sandwich” with extra speck (seasoned slices of pickled fat), which he enjoyed at Schwartz’s deli in Montreal – immediately after a hospital stay for angina. According to Sax, Poppa Sam “died as he lived – in love with Jewish delicatessen.” That passion is Sax’s birthright.
Save the Deli is a book for readers with an appetite. The reader accompanies Sax as he taste-tests his way through Jewish delis in Montreal and Toronto, coast-to-coast in the U.S., as well as in London, Paris, and Krakow. He takes readers behind the counter to learn the secrets of making the perfect pastrami sandwich (which is not as easy as it looks). Archival photographs of legendary delis add poignancy, and two indexes, a glossary of Yiddish food terms, and a listing of delis Sax visited for research will be useful for readers of any background. Sax’s prose sports a lively,
haymishe (warm, homey) style, marred only by occasional confused comparisons: “Like snowflakes … no two pastramis are exactly alike.” Snowflakes and pastrami? Just say
nu. Nonetheless, Save the Deli reminds us that eating that perfect pastrami on rye is, for many Jews, tantamount to internalizing and preserving a piece of their history. As Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl describes a classic deli sandwich in the book, “it’s fat and salt and sweet…. How could you not like it?” The same is true of this meaty book.
Review
"David Sax is the MFK Fisher of pickled meats. After
Save the Deli, you’ll never take a pastrami sandwich for granted again. You’ll also be moved by Sax’s wonderful portrayal of the folks behind the counters, and their fascinating thoughts on cultural identity, the relentless passage of time — and, of course, kreplach."
— A.J. Jacobs, author of
The Know-it-All and
The Year of Living Biblically“Nobody this young should be so smart or know so much about delicatessens. He may go down in history as a Jewish hero, the man who saved rye bread. The kid knows how to eat and he knows how to write. You can't ask for more than that, although a glass of cream soda is always nice.”
— Alan Richman, author of
Fork It Over: The Intrepid Adventures of a Professional Eater“[A] passionate manifesto … intensely evocative.”
— Jane and Michael Stern, authors of
Roadfood“A Bromo-fueled cri de coeur on behalf of the uniquely Ashkenazic food that keeps its devotees … from going goyish into that good night.”
— Michael Wex, author of
Just Say Nu“An epic journey, akin to the
Odyssey but with Rolaids.”
— Roger Bennett, author of
Bar Mitzvah Disco
"What if they gave a pastrami on rye and nobody came? Unthinkable? That's what you think. David Sax knows better, and traces the history of the American (and Canadian. And British!) deli — its arrival, its rise, its potential fall, its possible salvation — with passion, humor, chutzpah, and tam. Enjoy."
— Ellis Weiner, author of
Yiddish with Dick and Jane"A delightful tour of Jewish delicatessens across the nation and abroad, David Sax opens a necessary discussion about the very future of those beloved, yet dwindling, institutions.
Save the Deli is a great read."
— Ed Koch
“David Sax’s book on delicatessens is an important work. The food is an important part of the Jewish culture. We could not have grown up without it. I totally enjoyed our interview and I must say that the book is a great read for anyone, from the culture conscious to the foodies.”
— Fyvush Finkel, (Yiddish theater legend, actor
Picket Fences and
Boston Public)
"Just the thought of a book dedicated to the history and cultural importance of Jewish Deli makes my mouth water. And who better to take on the project than passionate writer and adventurer David Sax. His knowledge and experience make him the perfect man for the job. Without a bible like this how will our next generation of eaters know the delight and pure satisfaction of biting into that perfect pastrami on rye, smothered in mustard and accompanied by a full-sour dill pickle?"
— Gail Simmons, editor
Food and Wine and judge on "Top Chef"