During our travels tracing the history of Strathcona's Horse around South Africa, we heard hair-raising stories of hijackings and armed robberies and met with refugees from Robert Mugabe's Zimbabwe. We discussed the origins of apartheid, encountered an obstreperous elephant and heard a story about predatory lions in the Kruger National Park. We drove with the mad taxi-drivers of Mpumalanga, found the lost battlefield of Wolvespruit and explored the history of the Zulu nation and their victory over British forces at Isandlwana. We admired the bravery of B Company, 24th Regiment of Foot at Rorke's Drift and, two decades later, the courage of General Buller's soldiers during the Boer War disasters at Colenso and Spion Kop. We followed the Strathconas following General De Wet across the Orange Free State, met a dog named Wagter at Ladybrand and traced Lord Methuen's ill-starred attempts to relieve Cecil Rhodes bottled up in Kimberley. We marched to Paardeberg and admired the courage of the Royal Canadians and General Cronje's burghers in that epic battle. Nearing the end of our journey, we sought the forgotten battlefield of Frederickstad and, fearing the worst, entered the city of Johannesburg, only to discover long-lost friends and pleasant memories of times past.