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Most helpful customer reviews
3.0 out of 5 stars
Okay,
This review is from: Surf Science (Paperback)
Not a bad book but not nearly enough diagrams. For such an interesting topic the book does a terrible job of presenting the info.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta) Amazon.com:
4.1 out of 5 stars (11 customer reviews) 27 of 27 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars
Great popular science book, not just for surfers,
By Konstantin Momot - Published on Amazon.com
This review is from: Surf Science (Paperback)
I've never surfed in my life but read this book as a scientist with an interest in fluid mechanics. The book introduces a wide range of concepts and models, starting from large-scale climate patterns, to storms and generation of waves, to their propagation and evolution, taking the reader step-by-step through some rather complex phenomena. The writing is plain and accessible to a non-physicist, yet scientific, making this book a pleasure to read. My favourite section was probably the one on climate patterns, which discusses the atmosphere as a non-equilibrium, dissipative system driven by the energy of the Sun and coupled to the rotation of the Earth - and manages to do it quite well without introducing a single equation. For those wishing more mathematics, there is a list of references for further reading. I did find one or two minor blunders, such as the statement that "the equator is warmer than the poles because it is closer to the Sun" (the reason it is warmer is, of course, in the different incidence angles of sunlight), or equations with no units. Another warning is that this is a book about the physics of *waves*, not the hydrodynamics of surfing. But overall, this is a great piece of popular science. Any teacher who values problem-based learning will appreciate it - as, hopefully, will any surfer who wants to know why waves behave the way they do.
22 of 23 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars
great topical coverage,
By Pen Name "viva_fourier" - Published on Amazon.com
Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Surf Science: An Introduction To Waves For Surfing (Paperback)
This book is written for the layman and has great illustrations to back up some very complicated topics ranging from climatology and atmospherics to answering the "simple" question: what makes a good wave?If you have never studied weather patterns, buoys, or local surfbreaks, you stand to learn a lot from this book. It covers all aspects of wave science without the heavy textbook feel. Those with a formal science background will find this an easy read and be tempted to look into the references for a bit more of the equations behind the science. One point that it did not cover was the physics in the surfing of waves. It hits hard on "what makes a wave" but doesn't touch the "what is surfing" question. Reading this book will not make you a better surfer but, it will teach you how waves form and yield some insight into wave prediction. 12 of 12 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars
Dude! It's Surf Science, NOT Surfing Science,
By Elliot Malach "The Unknown Surfer" - Published on Amazon.com
Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Surf Science (Paperback)
If you want to see waves and surfing, buy a magazine. If you want to learn about the surf and waves, how they are formed, and what affects their size, form and period, buy this book. It takes complex concepts and explains them in simple, understandable terms with good graphic illustrations. If you want the mathematics behind the concepts, those are available too in the back of the book. I found the section on earth rotation and winds very good. It helped explain why the waves aren't any better where I surf.
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