Tahiti & French Polynesia Guide, 4th Ed. [Paperback]

Jan Prince's book is dense with well-organized information about Tahiti and her islands. If you read carefully, with attention to her suggestions, you can't fail to find the right island for you, or right combination of islands. Here is what we did, and most came from her book:

We had 10 days and split it as follows: 1st day and night Papeete (plane landed at 4 a.m.). Next four nights in Bora Bora. Next three nights in the Marquesa Islands (Hiva Oa), last night (before plane left at 2 a.m.) back in Papeete. This combination worked out well, giving us a good contrast between the lush and luxurious Bora Bora, and the incredibly beautiful remote island of Hiva Oa, where Paul Gauguin lived out his last years and is buried. Belgian singer-poet Jacques Brell, too.

Everyone said Papeete would not be a highlight, but spending one night there worked out logistically and we got to see the artistan component of the annual Heiva Nui Cultural Festival. The level of the crafts on sale was excellent and better than what we saw elsewhere (all the good stuff had been sent to the festival). Because we landed on July 4th, when we arrived at the hotel we were handed invitations to a bash being hosted that night by the president of Fr. Polynesia in honor of US Independence Day and Tahiti Air's inaugural NY-Papeete flight (which we were not on). All AMericans in town that day were invited, whether tourists or residents, and it was a great party. Dancers from various islands, singers, a spread of salads and perfectly grilled meats. If you are going to be there next July 4th call the US consulate ahead of time to find out if they are going to do a repeat and make sure you get an invite.

The Bora Bora Langoon Resort and Spa was elegant, friendly, beautiful, and pricey. The spa was a treat (facials, massages, wraps) and I recommend making reservations in advance for the treatments you want as they are well booked. My husband got sick on Day 3 and was attended by an absolutely competent Basque-born, French trained female doctor who took the boat to make the "house call," and got him back on his feet in no time (he had a stomach flu). Nest time I think we would opt for one of the other islands Jan describes which are less expensive, less organized in terms of acitivites, but equally beautiful. Most seem to have at least one luxury resort.

From Bora Bora we flew back to Papeete and immediately out to Fatu Hiva, one of the Marquesan islands, and from there to Hiva Oa. A long trip made memorable by the last leg which we made in a small 19 seat prop plane. The plane flew low, over Fatu Hiva's stunning terrain (we could see the aircraft's shadow below us) and then directly into the clouds, emerging to land on Hiva Oa. Wow!

Hiva Oa's only hotel (4 stars) is the Hanakee Pearl Hotel. Small (14 bungalows), charming, and special because of the personal attention the manager and his wife devoted to each guest. The trip to the giant tikis of Puamau was through more amazing, untouched terrain. The Gauguin exhibit and Brell center in town are worth a morning at most (I should have read more gauguin before coming). We did not go Tahuata but should have. The hotel's tiny boutique had the only good collection of Marquesan wood sculpture on the island.

My biggest prolem was figuring out what to do on the day we arrived --just after midnight. And on the day we left -- again just after midnight. In the end we sprung for hotel rooms both days. A good decision, After arriving we had the the luxury of an early morning shower and a few hours of sleep before exploring Papeete. We stayed at the Mandarin, Prior to departure we stayed at the Sheraton (from 3:30 p.m. until midnight), had a great suite (upgraded from an el-cheapo room), and after a lst minute shopping spree, we able to shower, dine and sleep a few hours before heading out.

You can get better prices calling the hotels directly and booking internal flights between islands with Air tahiti via email. The staff person we worked out details with by email was very polite, helpful and efficient.

For those of you who have to keep up with the world just a bit while on vacation, both the Bora Bora Langoon Resort and Sheraton were able to give us an internet modem hookup in the room (pricey but worth while). the Pearl Lodge let us hook our laptop to their modem in the lobby. Before leaving LA we got through www.cellularabroad.com (Jan's book has details) a french Polynesian sim card which we slipped into our cell phone. We were available for emergencies, etc., from the minute we landed. All incoming calls on the VINI card were free.

This book is THE visitor's guide to French Polynesia, whether you want to spend $1,500 a night for the best resorts, or $15 a night for a campsite. Are you trying to figure out which 5-star resort is the best place to stay? Wondering whether a pension offers hot or cold water showers? Need to know what days of the week an excursion operates and at what times of the day? It's right at your fingertips. I have been to French Polynesia twice. I can't imagine how I survived those trips without this book. You simply must not travel to French Polynesia without a copy in your luggage.

The author is an American ex-pat who has lived in French Polynesia for more than 30 years and has worked there as a tour guide. She has dedicated a chapter to each of the Society islands with highly detailed sections on: Transportation to get to/from the island; Intra-island transportation and rentals; Orientation; Places to stay (from deluxe to budget); Places to eat; Places to shop; Tours, excursions and self-guided drives/walks; Public parks; Entertainment; Scuba-diving and water sports; Banking; Safety; you name it. Additional chapters cover the Tuomotus, Marquesas, Australs and Gambiers. Contact information is provided for each business covered.

I have no idea why this book has 4 1/2 stars -- it should have 5 stars!

Jan Prince has written the most comprehensive, easy to read, best organized guide to French Polynesia that anyone could ever find! She lives there, for cryin' out loud, has spent SO much time updating the 3rd edition to make everything current and accurate, and has the most accurate reviews of any of the guides on the market! She is the best of the best of the travel guides! (And I already own all the other ones...)

I've been traveling to Tahiti for ten years now, and wouldn't THINK of ever going without Jan Prince's latest version in my carryon! No matter how much you might THINK you might know before you get there, from travel agents or from the stuff the tour company sends you or from message boards, Jan's guide is the ULTIMATE life-saving info when you get there! She has saved our butts a thousand times in a pinch in finding transports, hotels, excursions, before we go and while there! She truly helps folks plan before they get there, and is helpful after you arrive... She is a true gem! No other guide comes close!

Don't leave home without it, folks!

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