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Before digging into any of the dozen-plus featured antipasti, Batali offers several specialty aperitivi, including the refreshing Blood Orange Bellini. Two of Babbo's signature dishes, Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage (little ravioli stuffed with a filling of sweet peas, mint, heavy cream, and Parmigiano-Reggiano) and Beef Cheek Ravioli (so good the book recommends doubling the filling and freezing a batch), are broken down and made more than accessible to the home cook. Other exceptional pasta options include Pumpkin Lune with Butter and Sage (finished with a dusting of Parmigiano-Reggiano and amaretti cookie crumbs) and Gnocchi with Oxtail Ragù (a reinterpretation of a Batali family classic, still served at Salumi, his father's must-visit Seattle shop). Chapters "Mare (From the Sea)" and "Terra e Bosco (From the Earth and Forest)" offer Crispy Black Bass with Endive Marmellata and Saffron Vinaigrette ("'crispy' sells more food than a barrage of adjectives," Batali reveals) and a succulent Osso Buco with Toasted Pine Nut Gremolata. There's a wonderful section on pre-desserts and cheese, and in "Dolci" pastry chef Gina DePalma wraps things up with Maple and Mascarpone Cheesecake, Meyer Lemon Semifreddo, and a tempting cookie plate.
The Babbo Cookbook is a gorgeous affair--nearly every recipe is accompanied by a color photo of the finished dish. Batali is an intelligent and inspiring guide throughout the book, and Babbo co-owner Joseph Bastianich (who cowrote the terrific Vino Italiano with Babbo wine director David Lynch) provides detailed notes on their topnotch table and wine service. Some of the recipes may seem daunting to tentative home cooks (the recipe for Warm Testa with Waxy Potatoes opens with "Place the pig's head in a large pot with water"), but Batali recognizes that readers don't have the benefit of being backed by a kitchen staff and offers tips and modifications to turn out a version of the dish as close as possible to the real deal. Whether you choose to cook your way through one recipe at a time or attempt to turn out an entire tasting menu for a special occasion, Batali's Babbo Cookbook is a keeper--a book you'll turn to again and again. --Brad Thomas Parsons
Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information, Inc.
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Most helpful customer reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
Recipes that work,
By A Customer
This review is from: The Babbo Cookbook (Hardcover)
I ate at Babbo last weekend and was pleasantly surprised to find that the recipes I'd made from the book were as delicious as the food at the restaurant. Ok, maybe my plating isn't as beautiful ;) This is a great cookbook just to feast your eyes on, but when cooking from it, I'm glad it isn't dumbed down. With some effort and practice (and yes, you'll also need a lot of free time), you can produce food that's as good as Babbo.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars
Almost too pretty to use,
This review is from: The Babbo Cookbook (Hardcover)
This book lives on my coffee table. Not for lack of use, but because everything about it is so beautiful, I don't want to destroy it in the kitchen. The paper stock is so satisfyingly glossy thick, I can't bear the thought of getting it covered in splash marks, or warped by steam. The layout is easy on the eyes, and I still get excited about peeking under the dust jacket to see the tomato red cover with the Babbo jester marching across. I LOVE well designed cook books, and this is one of them.The recipes are simple in that they don't really require advanced technique. They are often quite labor intensive, or time consuming (don't let this stop you from making the maple marscapone cheesecake), but its not the kind of overwrought fussing that can take the fun out of being in the kitchen. As other reviewers have said, the recipes are easy to modify, and I quite often do for variety's sake. The bruschetta trio are wonderful; I like to eat the cici bean mixture as a light lunch, and the tomato and sheep's milk cheese bruschetta makes a wonderful salad when you replace the bread with spinach leaves. My only caveat is that some of the ingredients can be pricey. Its worth your time and money to seek out the ones that are hard to find, and pay for quality, but be prepared for sticker shock. I wouldn't plan on cooking for large groups from this book (you can quite easily max out your weekly food budget on one three course meal), but it is definitely the first one I turn to when I need something special.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
More than a cookbook,
By
This review is from: The Babbo Cookbook (Hardcover)
Mario Batali's Babbo Cookbook is no mere cookbook. While delivering the recipes that have been developed and presented at his Village restuarant, it's through Mario's brief pre-chapter and pre-recipe writings where he lovingly conveys his passion for Italian food and cooking. His core passion is for fresh ingredients in simple (unlike the French) yet tasty preparations. He cannot stress enough how important it is to have relationships with the local baker, butcher, fishmongerer, grocer, etc. to insure the delivery of the best quality ingredients. He stresses the use of ingredients that are in-season to maximize the taste and appeal to the senses. His passion extends to the presentation and delivery of food. Simple suggestions in the cookbook include priming the wine glass before serving fine wines. This book is a superb addition to any cook's collection.
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