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The Riverbones: Stumbling After Eden in the Jungles of Suriname [Paperback]

Andrew Westoll
4.3 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (3 customer reviews)
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Book Description

Oct 28 2008 0771088752 978-0771088759
A young man uncovers myth, history, and murder while searching for the soul of an unknown and magical place.

Andrew Westoll spent a year living the dream of every aspiring primatologist: following wild troops of capuchin monkeys through the remote Central Suriname Nature Reserve, the largest tract of pristine rainforest left on earth. But that was only the beginning.

Westoll left the world of science altogether when he departed Suriname six years ago. But the country itself stayed with him and became a strange obsession. Nestled above Brazil and the Upper Amazon Basin, Suriname has a legitimate claim to the title The Last Eden, as ninety percent of this mysterious country is covered in thick, neo-tropical jungle. Westoll read everything he could find about the old Dutch colony — wild stories about secretive Amazonian shamans, superstitious tribes of ex-African slaves, outlaw Brazilian gold-miners, a ghostly lake with the dead canopy of a drowned rainforest at its surface, and an unsolved political murder mystery that continues to haunt the nation. Five years passed, and Westoll yearned to return to the rainforest. Then the opportunity finally arose.

Westoll didn’t think twice — he immediately quit his job, gave away most of his possessions, and kissed the love of his life goodbye. For the next five months, he explored the most surreal country in South America for a glimpse of its quintessential soul. He struggled up dark neo-tropical rivers, immersed himself in Surinamese Maroon culture, and met a cast of characters whose eccentricities perfectly mirrored the strangeness of their land.

Westoll maps the natural and human geography of this exotic land while hunting for closure to his strange obsession with it. In the end, he tells a spellbinding story of survival, heartbreak, mystery, and murder.

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Product Description

Quill & Quire

First as a primatologist, and then as a practitioner of literary non-fiction, Andrew Westoll has spent considerable time in Suriname, on the Atlantic coast of South America. He calls it one of “those economically poor, mostly tropical and subtropical countries … collectively referred to as the Third World,” a term that is “an insult levelled by the rich nations of the world that has influenced the economic policy and underlying psychologies of Western governments since it was coined in 1952.” The Riverbones is the kind of travel book in which the author juggles the stories of local individuals with material on the anthropology, geography, politics, and history of the place. As relatively few of us know much about Suriname, the book must constantly commute between research and experience. An example of the former is Westoll’s statement that the Saramaka people among whom he lived “are still rooted in the motherland, as if their ancestors had never been violently ripped from their homes in the Gold Coast or Kongo and shipped across the sea.” Theirs is a matrilineal culture, yet one in which a woman’s role is “both defined and limited by her ability to reproduce.” In contrast, here’s a representative sentence about the author’s personal experience: “We’re listening to Otis Redding on the eight-track and soon the paved road is nothing more than a muddy trail through thick jungle.”  A romantic backstory is never quite fleshed out, but there’s much else to admire in this example of what is, after all, the most rewarding type of travel narrative, and likewise the most difficult to carry off.

Review

"Suriname, an almost secret place: very few people know this is the cradle of many famous football players, and almost nobody knows that these sport stars are the historical heirs of the Maroon slaves who once defeated Dutch colonialism. Andrew Westoll went deep inside the jungle, looking for a sacred, tiny, shining, blue frog, and discovered that perhaps hell and heaven have the same address."
— Eduardo Galeano

“Compelling … freewheeling and vividly written. The book is clammy with humidity, dense with allegorical undergrowth.”
Globe and Mail

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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars The Riverbones May 14 2009
Format:Paperback
I had originally heard about this book through my magazine subscription with Explore Magazine. I had spent some time in the Guyanese rainforest and the setting of Suriname is very similar and I was anxious to read this book. It is an extremely entertaining read with lots of details about the culture, landscape, people, politics and beauty of Suriname. Great adventure story.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Couldn't put it down! Nov 6 2009
Format:Paperback
If you're interested in travel, adventure, rain forests, a bit of history and a great little country in South America this book is for you. Having spent my childhood in Suriname and then returning later in life, I was interested in how "an outsider" might view it. I was pleasantly surprised at how much I learned from him about my own country!! Westoll's account is interspersed with historical details and amusing anecdotes... and really keeps the reader turning pages. I've since passed this book on to several members in my family and it's being fought over. I'm back to buy more for them all!!
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Format:Paperback
Westoll has a gift for story telling. 'The Riverbones" is written from Andrew Westoll's extended travels through the Republic of Suriname. Suriname has never been more than a name on a map for me and I found myself spellbound by the history, politics and the personal back story of Westoll's adventures. If you like Mark Bowden (Blackhawk Down, Killing Pablo) you'll really enjoy this. His dramatic account of the Dési Bouterse governments misuse of power shows gutsy journalism while his adventures in the back country of the Sipaliwini Nature Reserve searching for Okopipi (incredibly rare blue frog found only in Suriname) is at times both humorous and heartbreaking. I found 'The Riverbones' educational without losing the intimacy of what writers often sacrifice to get to the heart of a story. I highly recommend it.
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