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The Self-Coached Climber, With DVD [Paperback]

Dan Hague
5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
List Price: CDN$ 45.95
Price: CDN$ 28.80 & FREE Shipping. Details
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Book Description

Feb. 27 2006
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, The Self-Coached Climber offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner.

Self-Coached Climber was named a finalist in the Mountain Exposition Category at the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival.

Frequently Bought Together

The Self-Coached Climber, With DVD + 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes + Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance
Price For All Three: CDN$ 73.93

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Inside This Book (Learn More)
First Sentence
It's nothing new to call climbing a balance sport, but the "why" behind the concept has never been fully explained. Read the first page
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Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Index | Back Cover
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Most helpful customer reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars My climbing improved greatly in a short period Aug. 27 2013
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
I bough this book and followed all of the exercises in the first few chapters. In the couple of weeks after receiving it, I was climbing 5.10b and people complimented my technique and thought I could climb harder. A big problem I had at the time was weak finger tendons and forearm endurance. I will not have access to a climbing gym for a few months, but I will continue with my hangboard workout and see what my strength is like getting back into it. I have no doubts that this book will make me a better climber. The dvd is a great visual aid although it's not really needed.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
Amazon.com: 4.6 out of 5 stars  60 reviews
49 of 53 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Best sport climbing book yet! Feb. 9 2006
By GearGuy - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback
This makes "Performance Rock Climbing" completely obsolete (great in it's day, way outdated now). And it blows "Training for Climbing" away with better content on movement training and a DVD that brings it all together. The authors have clearly put a lot of time and research into this book -- it's technical but very readable.

This is a must-have for anyone serious about hard rock. BUT it has zero content about nutrition or injury prevention and recovery; serious oversights that are covered best in "Climbing: Training for Peak Performance" (a great book but more for alpine climbers and weekend rock warriors). For example, it doesn't warn how easy it is to hurt an ACL doing a drop knee or even discuss an A2 pulley injury. And you really can't climb at your best if you aren't eating well. Despite these short-comings, Self-Coached Climber rocks!
19 of 19 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Comprehensive Training for Climbers Jan. 27 2008
By J. Liles - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
"The Self-Coached Climber" is an excellent training resource for climbers at just about any level. I bought the book recently and before even finishing reading it, I started seeing improvements in my technique from working on the exercises.

In contrast to other books like "How to Climb 5.12," SCC is highly detailed and specific in its approach to improving fundamentals like balance, center of gravity and movement skills. The book provides excellent exercises for particular skills, and these are illustrated with abundant photos and/or drawings that show how the exercise should be done. Additionally, videos on the accompanying DVD can clarify any confusion with the exercises. Finally, a detailed training plan is presented for developing the stamina, strength and technique needed to move up in the climbing grades.

I think it's worth noting that while this is billed as a "self-coached" training book, some of the exercises can't be done without a partner. In fact, working with an equally-motivated partner through the course of the book would probably be the ideal approach.

I believe "The Self-Coached Climber" is a perfect companion piece to Arno Ilgner's mental training book "The Rock Warrior's Way" for anyone wanting to become a better and more confident climber.
33 of 36 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Not a Substitute for experience BUT... Feb. 15 2007
By Rehan Dost - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback
Training to climb is very sport specific. That is..... there is ample evidence that cross training to climb is not useful. For example being able to do 100 pull ups is probably not going to enhance your climbing ability much. Perhaps the only exception to this rule once you reach a certain level of climbing, is "reading" to climb. I must stress that without a certain baseline climbing experience reading about HOW to climb is not going to help you . However, as you excel you will find yourself plateauing. This is when mentoring will be of greatest benefit. Most cannot afford to be mentored by an experienced climber so you do the next best thing....mentor by proxy...you read a book.

In this regard, this book is one of the best "mentors" around. It takes you from your current plateaued level of climbing into an exponential phase of improvement. The book explains climbing by looking at movement which is composed of space, time, force and balance, efficiency of movement and psychology of movement. After explaining these topics the author gives specific exercises to improve these aspects of climbing.

The author then integrates these concepts into a coherent training schedule by first identifying your current level of performance in actual climbing. He then spells out what you should be doing at that level of climbing to progress to the next level. I particularly appreciated this part of the book.

For example let's say your current level of climbing is 5.10. He gives you a detailed training schedule of how to improve your level of climbing to 5.11. He holds your hand telling you how to warm and for how long, what bouldering problems to do, what climbs to do and how to do them, how to train both aerobically and anaerobically. Detailed training is provided to the 5.13 level.

If you are beginner I would not recommend buying any books yet. Rather go out a climb. For an introduction on "how to climb" please see my listmania: " so you want to rock climb".
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Totally fills the void. March 3 2007
By Ripley I - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback
This book does what others only hint at - give you comprehensive tools to get past peaks, develop and strengthen weaknesses, and actually create a plan on how to get there.

No other book (and I've gotten them all) does this. I don't agree with the writer that this book should have included how to deal with injuries - that is more than covered in other books and I didn't miss it in this one.

The training plans and exercises in this book (and I only climb 2 x week, not 4 - due to my advanced age) brought my bouldering grade up one level (solid on-sight) and leading two grade: In less than six weeks!!

Don't skip the technique sections - they are vital even for advanced climbers.
8 of 9 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Groundbreaking Aug. 24 2006
By Jordan Shipman - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback
I've read and been through just about eery other training book for rock climbing. This is the first book that reads like a textbook for school. It breaks things down into a science, increasing your understanding and vocabulary of how climbing works enabling you to cognitively apply practical skills immediately. Unlike other books, this one instructs the reader how to actually construct a training plan and what excercises to perform for his/her level based on what level they are trying to reach instead of simply stating the obvious, "to get better you need to train." This book is a must read for anyone looking to train for climbing and a bible for any serious climber looking to amp up their training regime.
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