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Voodoo Vintners: Oregon's Astonishing Biodynamic Winegrowers [Paperback]

Katherine Cole

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Book Description

June 15 2011
Could cow horns, vortexes, and the words of a prophet named Rudolf Steiner hold the key to producing the most alluring wines in the world--and to saving the planet? In "Voodoo Vintners" wine writer Katherine Cole reveals the mysteries of biodynamic winegrowing, tracing its practice rom Paleolithic times to the finest "domaines" in Burgundy today. At the epicenter of the American biodynamic revolution are the Oregon winemakers who believe that this spiritual style of farming results in the truest translations of "terroir" and the purest pinot noirs possible. Cole introduces these "voodoo vintners," examining their motivations and rationalizations and explaining why the need to farm biodynamically courses through their blood.Her engaging narrative answers the call of oenophiles everywhere for more information about this "beyond organic" style of farming.

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Voodoo Vintners: Oregon's Astonishing Biodynamic Winegrowers + Authentic Wine: Toward Natural and Sustainable Winemaking + Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally
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Amazon.com: 4.7 out of 5 stars  7 reviews
13 of 13 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Interesting, balanced, and fun coverage of biodynamic winegrowers in Oregon June 10 2011
By Sitting in Seattle - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
If you've wondered exactly what biodynamic wine is, why winegrowers make it, and who they are, then this is the book for you. It presents the perfect mixture of explaining the concepts and practices of biodynamics, telling great stories about the individual wineries and winemakers, while maintaining a skeptical viewpoint that shows the odd parts of biodynamics without extolling it or condemning.

I'm a frequent visitor to Oregon wineries and have wondered exactly what "biodynamic" means. The book answers that in substantial detail -- not as a winegrowing manual, but from a readable, journalist's point of view: what is the difference from organic? what are the "preparations"? the role of the moon? the underlying beliefs? The author does a great job of presenting answers all around, without being tedious or overwhelming. It's the perfect introduction to those topics for interested wine aficionados. The author is not trying to convince anyone that biodynamic is better -- in fact, she is clearly skeptical of some aspects of it, which I appreciate -- and is instead just trying to explain it and tell its story.

One thing to note is that the book is *not* a guide to the wines themselves. It remains studiously neutral about the quality of the wines it discusses. In my opinion, some of the very best Oregon properties are biodynamic and make exquisite wine; yet there are also duds where I can only say things like "well, I like the idea." The author leaves aside such judgment. Instead, she tells the history of the biodynamic movement and its foundation in Rudolf Steiner's philosophy, skillfully woven with stories of individual wineries and the history of organic and biodynamic winegrowing.

In short, if you want a wine guide, this is not it (try John Haeger's Pacific Pinot Noir). Or if you want a manual for biodynamic farming or winemaking, it's definitely not that. But if you like reading about wine and winemakers, enjoy Oregon wine, and have ever wondered "what does biodynamic mean?" then it's the perfect book. Cheers!
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Necessary read for wine overs May 9 2012
By David C. Stewart - Published on Amazon.com
As life in our world becomes more industrialized and processed, the desire to get back to natural ways
of living and eating has touched off the move to trumpet the organic qualities of some foods. Wine as a drink
is supposed to represent the earth and climate like no other, so of course you would expect there to be
organic wine. You may have even heard of winemakers flaunting their "biodynamic" cred.

When my neighborhood winery advertized themselves as biodynamic, I didn't think too much about it. But Biodynamics
is about more than just avoiding toxic sprays. It specifies a range of herbal treatments for vines which
must be prepared in some really wacky ways. Think burying flowers in animal skulls for several months.

Cole does an excellent job researching the roots of biodynamics and presenting it in a balanced way. But what's
really wonderful about this book is the way she introduces us to the people of Oregon wine. Winemaking is relatively
new in Oregon, dating back to the 1970s. So the pioneers are still with us.

If you are an Oregonian, this is a special treat. For example, you can read about Moe Momtazi's hair-raising
escape from his native Iran. Then you can drive out to Maysara Vineyards and meet Moe himself and his
winemaking daughters.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars A very nice read for those with some interest in viticulture ~ May 17 2012
By Christopher Barrett - Published on Amazon.com
Being a long time wine industry veteran, I picked this up to investigate a little bit of the mystique behind biodynamic (BD) wines and the application of BD practices in Oregon. I must say that after finishing this book, I feel like I gained a little more understanding and appreciation of the process, but with some faults.

First off, the book is written in an odd style. The author seems to switch from journalist style writing (which I thought was her best style) to a more encyclopedic style (that left me nearly comatose) to a storybook style (which didn't really fit in with the theme of the text). At times she really discussed the past and the history of those Oregon growers who turned to BD. But often their past, while interesting, does nothing to shed light on their BD beliefs. It does in a few instances, but often the history of the people involved is rather extended.

The chapter on Steiner, while interesting, halts the book dead in its tracks. While understanding Steiner is important, I think much of this information could have been excluded and those interested could have looked into further reading in other texts. I gave the book to my partner (a wine lover, vegan, and lover of all foods organic, but not in the wine business) to read and she couldn't really get beyond the Steiner section. I told her to skip it and then she told me she enjoyed the rest.

The other problem is that while the author seems to really enjoy BD wines, and seems to want to promote them, she does end on a rather convincing chapter discrediting BD. When she mentions Sokol Blosser and their trials with BD, it is like saying to someone like me: see you can make stellar wine in just as organic a process without using BD practices. I do understand that it works and has worked for many other wineries, but I do like that Alex Sokol Blosser points out that BD is not super-organic or organic to the extreme as many put it. He states that his winery is just as organic and waste conscious (if not more so) than many BD practitioners.

Still, the book has merit. With wineries such as Bergstrom, Brick House, Beaux Freres, and others using BD practices and commanding $50 -$90 per bottle and garnering outstanding ratings by the press, one does have to wonder if there is merit to this practice.

Still, in the end, I felt very little changed on my opinion of BD - if the wine is good, then I don't really care how it was grown as long as the producer is environmentally conscious. I am still a fan of many BD producers, but I feel, after reading this book, that just being environmentally responsible and trying to grow mostly organic is preferable to conventional farming. If BD is what it takes to get you there, then so be it.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A terrific book July 13 2013
By Brendan Burke - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Kindle Edition|Verified Purchase
The author jumps into biodynamics with a scientific mind and open heart. My personal interest in biodynamics is to learn how to farm as a piece of an ecosystem and not a master of a domain. That being said my personal approach to biodynamics is one of science and personal intuition. She does a good job covering the astrological and metaphysical parts without really siding for or against. This would be a difficult read if it were to proselytize the metaphysical side of biodynamics but I am glad it doesn't ignore it since its a huge part of the story. Great book.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Informative but not for my vineyard Sept. 10 2012
By Robert A - Published on Amazon.com
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
Biodynamics is a good read. Its just I can't bury a cow horn 5-6 ft in the ground to ferment it during the winter and use it to make preps in the spring. I will use some of the methods along with organic to grow and vint my grapes (84 cases a year. The book was well written and does present all (and I mean all) side of the story in a plesant mannor. Enjoy the book its just a primer to advanced biodynamics

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