Books in Canada
This book originates in my old stamping ground of Vancouver. From Food Network star Rob Feenie and his sous chef Marnie Coldham, the recipes in the book are based on the fare from their Lumiere Light tasting bar in Vancouver. The virtues of this one are that the recipes are excellent, the cuisine light, high/serious and culturally fused. These are the same virtues to be found, generally, in Feenies television cuisine and the two Vancouver restaurants. Unfortunately, the book suffers from the same faults Ive found in his television cuisine: most of his recipes require a professional kitchen and pantry with a staff of six to prepare and present the food in a timely fashion, and the description of ingredients and preparation leave out enough that theyre frequently hard to follow and impossible to provision outside the countrys most sophisticated shopping areas. Feenies cuisine works on television because youre caught up in the stylishness of the presentation and are entertained by his high-energy choreography. But if youre like me, and read cookbooks in order to actually cook the recipes in a normal kitchen, its a little defeating. The only easily duplicated recipes are the ones for the exotic martini-style drinks that are scattered through the book. And after a few of those, Im too drunk to do much other than watch television.
Brian Fawcett (Books in Canada)
From Publishers Weekly
The recipes for cocktails and food from the tasting bar at swank Vancouver restaurant Lumière are many things—inventive, time-consuming, multi-layered—but "light" they are not, neither in the caloric sense, nor in the whipping-up-something-quickly sense. Feenie, Lumière's chef/owner, and Coldham, its sous chef, certainly cannot be faulted for presenting the same old thing. Deep-Fried Brandade with Black Olive Tapenade temptingly rolls chunks of cod and potatoes in breadcrumbs, then crisps them. In an example of successful fusion, Sake and Maple Marinated Sablefish with Hijiki-Soy Sauce marries Japanese flavors with a Canadian classic, maple syrup. Other dishes, however, sound overpoweringly rich, like Squash and Mascarpone Ravioli with Truffle Butter. The one thing all have in common is their complex preparation. Lumière Shepherd's Pie takes comfort food
haute with layers of duck confit, caramelized onions, roasted corn and truffled mashed potatoes stacked in a mold. It's a clever concept, but a lot of work. Color photos.
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