To my knowledge there is not another book about knitting pleats in English. So this gives Pobedinskaya the merit of being original to say the least. The concept is not difficult to grasp, and is described with enough illustrations and explanations to be rather easy to understand, even for an intermediary knitter, maybe even an enterprising beginner, although almost all of them require seaming up.

The patterns are as follows: a beaded top (that looks a bit like a cross between a bolero and a shrug, but looks cuter than what that sounds), a hat with puffy pleats, a puffy pleats scarf, a pleated beret, two types of pleated bags, a pleated collar (it looks like a bow tie!), a pleated t-shirt, a pleated neck bolero, a pleated shawl that looks a little like a sideways obi, the three-fan shawl (on the cover), a pleated trim jacket, an horizontally pleated pullover, an elongated back pullover (it looks like there is a cut-off scoop section in front), a top with vertical pleats, a short row pleats pullover, a pleated back vest. Some of the designs are very attractive, but on the other hand some I found, personal taste, to not be nice at all, and I thought some would be really unflattering on a real person, not a model striking the best possible pose.

All of the designs are clever, but in some places it's as though the cleverness of the pattern is not in synch with the use of the garment. I'm thinking of a sweater that has great pleat work, and the idea is quite interesting, unfortunately the pleats don't work well on the figure of the model. (Also, they don't look all that great in a clashing shade of variegated yarn). It's just too bad the good in book makes you disappointed for what isn't so good.

Still even the less attractive designs serve a purpose as inspiration as to what one can do with the technique, without attempting to replicate, kind of as a starting point. As such the book is great, because it has ideas that I'm sure will inspire other designers.

I consider myself an advanced knitter, with years of experience and the ability to design my own patterns, and this book ended up teaching me a great deal. Still if you are not a knitter with years of experience, this book will take you by the hand and explain the whole method, if you're willing to follow it.

The book starts on a really serious discussion on how to take measurements and how they apply to designing a jacket and customizing it to your own figure. There is also a discussion on how to modify the average measurements and how to mix and match measurements to your own "master" pattern. The level of precision and the level of customisation is to the point where the author explains what to do if your bust is larger than the average for your size, (namely by shaping darts in your pattern). The book makes you compare your measurements to the standard sizes of the book and goes on to work out an example of what to do in detailed steps. And there is a discussion, which is more of an explanation for the whole process of modifying a pattern to suit a full figure.

The book then goes on to explain how to make a paper pattern, and a jersey fabric jackets (with store-bought sweatshirt fabric) for testing purposes. There is a discussion on gauge and on yarn requirements. There is then an explanation on how to use your paper pattern with the Master patterns, ie the author explains her method and her notations in the Master patterns. And finally a section on finishing.

The Master patterns themselves are presented in 10 sizes (from 36-54) and 4 gauges (4, 4.5, 5, 5.5 st to the inch). From there you're armed to make your own masterpiece but if that were not enough, the author graciously provides a bunch of patterns (14) already worked out to the standard sizes (36, 40, 46, 52, 56. Of course all the patterns are jackets, and they are mostly classic, but there's a great deal of variation in the types of collars, in the stitch patterns and in the little details that make these look very classy. The boyfriend jacket is a must, in my opinion, and looks like a great wardrobe addition that you'll keep for years and never want to give away.

The book also has a section on buttons, buttonholes, edgings, borders, cuffs and pockets and how to add them to the pattern of your choice. And it has a great section on how to add a lining to your knitted with love jacket. This to me is the sign of a superior artisan, because the idea to line a jacket is not a popular one these days. However it will wear better and last longer and add a great deal of stability. Kudos to Frost for discussing why she chose the method she did, and kudos to the publisher for making the illustration and explanations very clear even to a sewing ignoramus like me.

If you're serious about knitting and love jackets, this is a great book. However, even for those who don't aspire to knitting a great many jackets, the method discussed is a great tool to have for an aspiring designer, and it could be replicated to other types of knitted garments. A brilliant, brilliant book, by all rights it should get 6 stars.

The title and the cover of this book don't lie. This is exactly the type of jacket you're getting in the book. There are variations in the type of silhouette but essentially you will get 18 designs of those knitted circles jacket that have been popular for quite a while now. What the title and the cover of the book don't say is that though knitted circle jackets have been around for a while, the author does innovate in the shape of these designs, because they are worked in a different way, namely there is a back placket (my description not the author's) to better shape the jacket's back, sleeves and eventually to conform to the body shape better.

I was a skeptic when I received this book, I thought it would all be a rehash of already seen designs, but I am convinced by the quality of the design after reading the book, the book is not in the same vein as the hype sometimes hashed out when these genre books come out. Still there are things that could be worked on to make the book even better.

First, the number of sizes is not staggering. There are only three sizes, and despite the author explaining that the jackets can be styled a bit differently on different body types and will be accomodating of sizes, it remains a bit of a One size fits all concept to only have three sizes in the book. I'm not sure how much work it would have been to include more, and I'm not sure how small size one is, and how big size 3 is. Given that the size shown in the photographs all seem to be size 2, I'm going to suppose that this is the model size, ie S/M. So maybe a size 3 is a L/XL. And this brings me to another critique, and it is that the sizes have only been identified by numbers. The author/editor makes no effort to indicate whether the sizes are S/M/L/XL to keep us in the ballpark. It is usual to at least suggest what these could represent according to the CYCA guidelines. Of course these jackets are not typical, and the author does indicate how to size yourself up by yoke measurement. Now this yoke measurement is explained and to make a short story, has to be taken on the actual body, because there is no way to compare this to a standard bust measurement. It seems to me that once the samples were all knitted up it would have been a simple business to measure them and give a bust measurement, but apparently not. So this book is great to make jackets for yourself, but slightly less so to make gifts for others, if you are not able to measure them beforehand.

Throughout the book, the author gives 4 variations on the basic jacket, (centered circle, off-center circle, centered oval, off-center oval). There are 18 different designs in those four categories, but it is the same type of jacket with length variations and cowls/neckbands/hood variations. The stitches used are st st/rev st st welts. One has little eyelets, quite a few have stripes of colour, and one has elongated stitches but the author is a bit tame when it comes to different types of knitting. Cables might have been difficult to work out but they would also have been the central showcase of the book had they been figured out in any way in the design. Same goes for knit/purl textural work or lace knitting. The decreases might have been worked in the st pattern, though again it would have been difficult to design, but certainly worth the time. I don't want to diminish the work that was done, but it would be a good start for further work.

As it is the author plays with textures in form of welts, sometimes contrasting two different yarns, sometimes she added fringes as well for visual appeal. And what appeal! the jackets are very beautiful, the photographs are really nice, and the editing of the book is great with a lot of explanations, charts and diagrams to make this new construction more easy to understand for the everyday knitter.

Another thing to consider when buying this book is whether you will want to make more than one of the jackets. Many knitters use a buying test that goes somewhat like this: "how many patterns in the book will I want to knit?". In this book, you have to wonder how many swirl jackets you will want for yourself or people you won't have trouble sizing up. The designs are enough similar that a second one might not be the same, but it will fill the same niche in your wardrobe. There are 18 designs, but chances are you will only knit one for yourself. So despite the book being a great technical achievement for MacIver, some knitters might wait for a paperback version or to borrow the book.

If the number of patterns you will make out of this is not important, then the book is excellent and worth the price.

Melissa has been kept confined to her father's house by his obsession with keeping her safe. She has never touched anyone without gloves, and she has never been outside the house, never played in the snow and certainly never met anyone in a social context. When her father passes away, the house that was her haven is sold, and her uncle takes her to live with him and be introduced to society so she can be married. Though Melissa is well educated and has perfect manners, her uncle relies on his son, who he presents as Melissa's first cousin, to be her support in society. But soon Melissa and John's feelings grow unruly, and Melissa does not yet know the cost of scandal to her and to her uncle and family.

First off, I have to say I bought this on the name of the author, because the synopsis read on the back cover sounded a bit ordinary, or even, not too appealing. I was rewarded in spades because this is exactly the kind of book that I love: well written, with a singular talent and a great emphasis on mood and emotions. It is unable to separate from the heroine, she is very easy to empathise with, even though her circumstances are unique, and the way her actions and emotions are described by the author are just very touching, and bring the right touch of symphathy. I like that the character reacts sometimes a bit unexpected, but it makes sense with the way the character is written.

In fact the story's plot is the emotional conflict, and the author finds a thousand obstacles to throw on the heroine's way to happiness. This is a very female centric book, as it is Melissa who is the central character, and John though a protagonist, and well written one at that, is written mostly in terms to further Melissa's story. I like how human both John, his father and Melissa's chaperone are written. Though Melissa's uncle, the Earl of Braddock, is a secondary character, his character, his beliefs, and his motives are clear and consistent, and when he finds his own hapiness, it feels just as romantic and worthwhile than when the main plot is resolved.

But I think that what I like the most are all the little way this particular ensemble of plot and characters is Goodger's own. She resists making this a book by the numbers, the pacing is her own, and how she throws the wrench in the romance is nothing short of masterful. This could have been very run of the mill, but instead it is a great read that kept me up until 2 AM.

Pamela Darby is not a girl who will easily accept defeat. When her coach is attacked, she devises a plan to have their attacker, highwayman Connor Kincaid, claim he is the long lost heir to a dukedom. Pamela would not normally stoop to this kind of scheming, but the circumstances are dire for her and her sister, and after all, no one will be truly hurt by this lie. And Connor has his own reasons for accepting her proposition, not the least of which is keeping close to Pamela. Though the two are powerfully drawn to another, the disguise of Connor into a powerful noble's son should mean the end of their acquaintance... Unless their enemies get too close to the truth.

First off, I have to say that the characters are sparkling. Pam Darby and her sister Sophie are not commonplace in romance novels, as they are not your run of the mill proper young misses, but rather illegitimate daughters to a famous actress that have been raised in the rapscallion world of the theatre. Because of this, Pam is resourceful and is a take charge character. Connor is a bit less unusual, but the author makes you believe his plight of wanting out of the thieving life. Their interactions together are genuine and interesting. The chemistry so to speak is really good, and you root for them almost from the start.

Also the plot is strong. The emotional conflict and the intrigue work well together, and the pacing though a bit slow at the beginning works because it gives a solid base to Pam and Connor as a couple. I will only say that a part of the conclusion is a little too pat for me, there is an almost magical denouement that I thought stretched the norms of "suspension of disbelief". It makes the ending almost too perfect for me. Though I suppose the romance genre might excuse this conclusion.

This is an enjoyable romance, with memorable characters, and strong, competent writing.

Antonia survived her first brush with a rake. She was disgraced, disowned and forced to live as a shadow of her former self, as a companion to another young lady, to deter rakes from taking advantage of her charge. But when the Marquess of Ranelaw decides the way to get revenge on his enemy by seducing his young daughter, it is Antonia's duty to stop him from taking advantage. Antonia has every reason to see through Ranelaw's charm and he has none to see through her disguise. And yet the attraction is impossible to resist. But what does the future hold for an already ruined woman and a rake?

I'm glad the author managed to flesh out her characters better than the stereotypes seemed to imply from reading the synopsis. Antonia is built up as a strong woman, and this is reinforced by the years spent hiding her true identity living as a quasi-servant, then by her protective attitude full of affection towards Cassie, her charge. Like many strong women, Antonia sees herself as having a particular weakness, and this is what she blames her attraction to Ranelaw to, when she can't overcome her curiosity where he is concerned. Ranelaw, is shown as a rake without scruples, bent on revenge, and many times his character says and thinks, he's only interested in vice and revenge. But slowly his actions and reactions reveal otherwise. As the reader is gradually allowed insight, Ranelaw reveals his motivations, and eventually he realizes his true mettle, just as the reader is shown his true character.

Though there are a lot of steamy scenes described in the book, and Antonia herself is no blushing maiden, the whole remains driven by the characters desires and progress towards one another. At times it is the sensuality that drives the emotions, but towards the end, it is difficult to untangle them, the emotional conflict taking a big place of the events unfolding, and the closeness between the protagonists is deeply driven by their emotional struggles.

Another aspect of the book that I liked, especially towards the end, was the use of secondary characters (mainly Cassie, Benton, and Godfrey Demarest) in ways that were subtle, interesting, but also well written. Benton is what comes closest to a villain, but instead of making him one dimensional, Campbell chooses to make him the counterpoint of the hero, and this opposition both enlightens and muddles the protagonists, until the plot comes to a head and the use of the character (without spoiling) helps close both the surface intrigue and the emotional struggle in a rather symbolic way. I liked that even the character of Cassie who could easily have been written for a few cheap laughs, actually shows unsuspected depths towards the end of the book. Same goes for Godfrey whose actions motivate the hero for a long time, but because he is not a one note villain, has a few shining moments, and provides a part of the conflict for the heroine. These secondary characters, just like the protagonists, have their own voice, and they will stand out from a crowd of similar heroes and heroines of romance books.

There are a few holes, like for instance, if Ranelaw lives only for revenge, what does he do for years before he has his opportunity to act? Just sample the pleasures of willing and less willing women. Live dissolutely until revenge mode is turned on? It is said at one point, he keeps training his pistol shooting, why not confront Demarest directly? Not to spill clues, but it would have made some sort of internal logic. Still, I liked how the author doesn't take the easy way out. Ranelaw sets out as a rake, and he doesn't act like a big kitten during the whole book, which adds to the challenge of showing how he grows, as a character, out of his negative sum vision of the world, into a man who is ready to change his ways. Same for Antonia, I liked how she fell, and what a challenge it was for her to claim back her handle on her own destiny. And this is all due to some very clever writing from the author. It is her creativity that makes the most of a standard plot.

I really like how much the author did with a rather tired plot. How the dialogues stand out and how intense they are at times, and you have to take a pause to imagine the scene because so much unsaid is happening at the same time. She really pulled me in. However I would have liked a better premise, then I think this book would have been a knock-out had that happened.

This book contains original patterns but it is also a mixed bag. Consider a "small amounts of yarn" pattern book that has patterns with as much yarn requirements as 800 m in laceweight fiber and 400 m of worsted, and you can see that the "one ball" pattern rule is stretch to its extreme limit. There are 5 (out of 20) patterns like these (a long sleeved bolero, a vest, two shawls and a poncho) in this book. They don't really conform to the idea of a short project to use up leftovers or small amounts of yarn, as far as I am concerned, even though they were effectively made with one skein or ball.

Still the patterns are quite nice and have their own flair. They avoid the stitch of the month syndrome and there is a personal look to the designs that I think is sometimes lacking in the profusion of knitting designs published in magazines or online. Most of all the finishing on some of the more oddball (pun unintended) patterns, is very nice. Two bag patterns look better than they deserve because of this. The other patterns are very diverse, there is a panja (this is a design inspired by the jewellery worn on the hands of Indian women), a wire set of necklace and earrings with beads, two belts, a flower pin, two purses, two pairs of fingerless mitts, two scarves, a moebius wrap, a pair of socks, a felted cloche, a shrug, a cabled poncho and a capelet. I'm not sure what use I would have with a knitted belt, but that's pretty much the only patterns I didn't like in the book.

Another thing of note in the book is that it has a very well edited part of "learn to knit" instructions. They are very well illustrated and are also very detailles, (including a discussion of what is a skein vs what is a ball and what is a hank.) Other than that, the how-to section has a great deal of information, including how to read a pattern, how to read a chart, and has great diagrams that are very clear to follow. It pretty much covers all of the techniques used in the book. All in all, this makes up the third of the book, so my main complaint is not about the quality of such a section, but rather that it is filler to round up a book with only 20 short designs up to a more marketable 112 p. In a book that was clearly titled as a how-to book this would be acceptable, sadly this is not the case. So it cheapens this book for me.

In Coming up Roses, Anderson takes a look at what happens to a woman when a man has power of life over her and abuses this power. Then she takes this character and forces her into a relationship with a man and the book is what Andersen thinks or wishes would happen. I have to say, I kind of hope she is right and that the right man can tame even the most wounded woman.

Kate and her daughter Miranda lived under the thumb of a man who despised every form of pleasure and made sure those around him lived lives of complete austerity. He brooked no disobedience and there was no excuse for displeasing him, not even Miranda young age. He also made Kate and Miranda live a miserable life away from the neighbors. So when Kate became a widow, she struggled to continue living on the farm. But when her neighbor Zach McGovern stumbles into her roses, after his dog. She finds it hard to keep her composure. Especially when she must nurse him back to health after he saves Miranda from a well full of rattle snakes. Zach, in more ways than one, disturbs her newly found peace, and his good natured relationship with Miranda just makes things harder for Kate, especially when her brother in law comes threatening to remove Miranda away from the "misbehaving" pair.

Kudos to Anderson for tackling the issue of marital abuse. In ways, Kate is a touching testimony to what people endure when the people they're entrusted to turn on them. Anderson takes great care to try to explain the behaviour of her former spouse too, though by necessity and by contrast he does come out little more than a complete bigot in this. The real villain however is the brother in law Ryan who will do anything to get his clutches on Miranda and Kate. One has to wonder why such a bible thumper would resort to crime to get what he wants when he must have honestly thought everyone in town would agree with him, but such are the demands of the plot. Zach on the other hand appears as almost too good to be true. He gets angry but only when a dozen men would have given up already. He doesn't feel very credible. Also, why he instantly becomes attracted to Kate, even though she clearly sends him negative signals, and even after her behaviour towards him is not improving, is not clear to me. It's like he likes to settle for difficulty. Same goes for Kate. She has an understandable averse reaction to men, including Zach, but at the same time inside she's like : ZOMG! he's so handsome, I want to nestle in his arms and smell his manly smell111!!!!111!!

Still if not for that Kate would not have her happy ending, and neither would we. The same could be said for the plot. In the course of the book, there is a revelation and it's heavily foreshadowed, so it ends up a little clumsy. Also this revelation could have been used to create a better plot and a more plot driven emotional conflict. It's not often I say this, but this book centered on Kate's character's needs so much, the plot fell to the wayside a bit too often. Because of this the plot is contrived. Especially the whole third act, when the way Kate's husband died becomes known to the reader and the town folks. I understand this was the ultimate test of the relationship and the emotional conflict's resolution, but it felt contrived and the end was flat and not well timed, if one can say that about a book. Not to mention the tempo dropped and the drama was a little over the top. At that point, Kate is a bit of a caricature and I don't understand Zach not erupting in frustration.

However, the book as a whole remains sweet and interesting, despite the flaws of the plot

First off, I am a Putney fan and I will always read her novels fondly and review them leniently. She is a gem of a writer who focuses on her characters more than on the extraneous details, and for this, there will always be room on my shelf.

Cassie Fox was introduced (ASFAIK) in Nowhere Near Respectable. And in this she is tasked with recuperating one of the Lost Lords who was previously thought to have died in France. She rescues Grey Wyndham, but he is a shell of his former self. Though at the time, PTSS had not been described as a medical condition, Grey exhibits the classic signs, and if anyone is able to understand his situation, Cassie can. She can relate, having braved countless dangers during her time as a secret agent. The two become close, but in society a great gulf separates them. When they must go back to France to settle old debts, the two must sort out whether their need of each other overcomes their differences.

First off, Cassie is so much more sympathetic as the heroine than as a secondary character in the previous book. Then Grey Wyndham is also an interesting hero, having been a golden boy for whom everything was a fete and having acquired a great deal much depth in his ordeal. Also though the romantic conflict sometimes seems a little stretched thin, Putney writes with conviction and makes me buy into it, so to speak. It is interesting that in this novel, it is Cassie who is the rescuer, and who is the strong one on whom Grey must depend. But it also closely mirrors the relationship of all those men of years past, coming home after having lived through countless ordeals who were literally pulled from despair by the quiet support of the women they had fought for. Though Cassie is a spy and a rather tough lady she does have that quiet acceptance in her that complements not only Grey's wounded spirit, but also his former very outgoing nature. They are a great match romantically speaking. And because they mingle well together, I tend to forget the parts where the plot makes little sense.

Unfortunately this plot does have parts where it's stretched past suspension of disbelief to further the character's story. Grey having been held ten years just for the sin of having been caught in bed with his gaoler's wife seems a little extreme. Had he been held, tortured and killed, it would have made sense, but to hold onto the grudge that long, and not even have tried to make the best of having a strong political hostage after having cooled down a year or two, when one is ambitious in a country at war. I don't know. There are other instances, where the plot takes a backseat to the need for action or the need for drama. Like I said it is hard to complain when the romance is this good. Still, Putney sometimes does better.

A good book, Fans of Putney will rejoice for an original romance title, others might enjoy a not so typical historical romance, and might come to want to read the rest of Putney's work.

Devlin St-Just is a bastard, and I literally mean, literally. Though his family cares about him, he joined the army to fight in the Napeleonic wars, and it is by his own efforts that he is rewarded with a brand new earldom and an estate. But that estate is not the only thing he is graced with, for quickly after arriving, he is met by another sharing the same stigma: little Winnie. Though he is ill equipped to assume responsibility for the little girl, Devlin decides it must be done. And to do so is to have dealings with Emmie, the girl's cousin and closest relative. Emmie loves Winnie fiercely but lacks the authority of a parent. So she does her best, until Devlin offers her to be a governess to the girl. Almost instantly, Devlin and Emmie develop mutual admiration and grow close to one another, but Devlin has trouble coping with his experiences at war and coming to terms with his mother's abandonment. Emmie wants to help him, but she has her own secret to overcome, a secret that makes her doubt her own worth and whether she has a future in Devlin and Winnie's lives.

First off, yes, the secret is a mountain made out of a molehill. But I find it forgiveable, since it is a reaction normal people have, never mind those who are in love, never mind those who have to deal with an issue as important as bastardy and reputation was in the time the novel is set. I don't think Burroughs overdoes it, but she does focus very keenly on the emotional impacts, and she delves quite deeply into the psyche of her characters. Maybe it's true that a man of Devlin's background should not have been so touchy feely and in tune with symptoms of a disorder that was not documented at the time. Much less maybe it's a stretch that not only Emmie finds everything he describe so easy to relate to, but pretty much sums up the whole situation before he has a chance to actually describe it in details. But I can forgive this, because it helps establish their connection. Devlin has it in him to dissect these feelings because she is sympathetic and an easy listener. She in turn sees how admirable his deportment is because she is privy to his feelings, because her presence made him able to work on them. Because the author takes the time to sort through those we have a poignant romance. Maybe not a very realistic historical novel, but neither was Casablanca a realistic war drama movie. I think the setting is realistic enough to tell the story, and for the romance to be enjoyable as a result.

Devlin is the more fleshed out character, just has his brother was in the previous book in the series. I think Burroughs writes very good male characters. Here's hoping the vicar will find his way as the main protagonist of one of her books too. I think a little less attention is given to Emmie in order to keep her secret hidden enough until the end. (It's an easy secret to guess, but it wasn't certain until there was more foreshadowing...). Also, it doesn't help that the synopsis of the book makes more of this secret than is made of in the plot of the book. The secret mostly impacts the emotional conflict and there isn't much intrigue plot to speak of, but the synopsis kind of builds up a mystery/danger plot about it, and it's a bit disappointing that there is nothing much to that effect in the book. It's alright for the book not to be written to focus on the emotional side of romance and not have those kinds of elements, but if you build up expectations for it there's cognitive dissonance when nothing of the sort happens later on.

A word of warning, the author uses a lot of food scenes in her book. I think she does to illustrate feelings of being home, and also of emotional bonding. It had the unfortunate effect of making me very hungry for cookies and pies though. A bit like a Janet Evanovich book but with a closed romantic arc for the characters and fewer cars destroyed.

Anyway, a good book. Had I not read the Heir first, I would still want to pick up the next book from the same author on the basis of having read this book.