|Item model number||BFC-PHM-300-KKXKK-RP|
|Product Dimensions||30.48 x 40.64 x 45.72 cm; 7.19 Kilograms|
|Item Dimensions L x W x H||30.5 x 40.6 x 45.7 centimeters|
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BitFenix No Power Supply MicroATX Tower Case BFC-PHM-300-KKXKK-RP
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- Case Type: MicroATX Tower
- Material: Steel, Plastic, Soft touch
- M/B Type: MicroATX, Mini-ITX
- Expansion Slots: 5x PCI Slots
- Front I/O Panel: 2x USB 3.0 Ports, HD Audio
- Power Supply: None, Supports PS2 ATX Power Supply (bottom, multi direction)
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BitFenix Phenom BFC-PHM-300-KKXKK-RP No Power Supply MicroATX Tower Case (Black)
Top reviews from other countries
Now on to the few things I don't like about it. The power button and usb slots are on the side of the case. No big deal, but if you're using a compartment type desk, they're inaccessible unless you pull the case out halfway. The cables to power these buttons are also attached to the side panel.So, every time it's taken off, you have to be careful not to yank too much or you'll rip them from the motherboard. The giant vent on top makes top fan installation easy, but it also lets all the fan noises escape. In my case, most of the noise is coming from Intel's stock fan, and would be greatly reduced if I replaced it. Other than a few awkwardly placed features, I'm surprised how much I enjoyed working with this small, simple, yet brilliantly built case.
Be warned, if you've only built a few machines, I would imagine you will most likely be unscrewing and reconfiguring your components. The case requires you to visualize and install certain components first (or run specific cables first) — otherwise you risk blocking off access to other hardware or undoing everything if you forgot hardware.
I am currently running two 10.5" flagship video cards with no heat/space issues (5.25" bay removed and a standard sized PSU).
The reverse airflow design isn't all that bad, it actually works quite well. I've placed my hand in a crack in the case and found no pockets of heat. That was with top intakes, rear exhaust and bottom 230mm exhaust fan. Odd to say the least, but it works.
I swapped the side panels to maintain a clean internal build, this leaves the power button etc. upside down on the other side but I'd much rather that than cables inside my case. Panel LED's are super bright, I disconnected them. I keep my SSD RAID on this panel as well, out of site. There's loads of room for older HDD's but I prefer non-moving parts on my build so I didn't test that aspect. Also, there's not much room for cable management but it's not impossible, you just have to pack it in reaaaally tight on the back pocket of space behind the PSU. I've seen people who don't take the time to manage their cables in this case and the end result looks like a bird nest of wires they tuck away and never tend to again — this is very bad for airflow and looks terrible. Tuck them away and you will be happy you did.
Originally I had a Corsair 120mm all-in-one cooler for my processor on the rear. A lot of reviews will tell you you've got to pick either a 240mm on the top (but only one video card) or two video cards and a 120mm all-in-one on the rear. This sadly, is true if you are using these units and air cooling. However! If you don't want to compromise, want a silent machine, a cooler machine and both of those video cards, then I am pleased to announce water cooling a CPU/GPU/GPU setup IS possible in this case.
At the time of this review I haven't seen a single image, thread, review about a custom loop in this chassis. In fact, most have said it's not possible etc. This is not so. I've found that for the time and money it takes to find the right cooling components that fit and cool well, the average person gives up (I can see why). But I became a bit obsessed with the challenge and it paid off. I do have a lot of spare parts left after my search though :)
Up top, you'll want no more than a 47mm thick radiator with some awesome Yate Loon (20mm version) in pull — since heat rises. On the GPU's you have to find blocks and an SLI connector that is flush with the block and allows the outlet to flow along the length of the card. The rear can take a 140mm radiator no thicker than 55mm. Push or Pull for your positive/negative airflow preference but no push/pull. Find a 110mL pump/res combo, hook your tubing up and you're good to go. The trick here is good fans and decent thickness on your radiators. Note this is the absolute minimum to keep this loop cool with two flagship cards and a moderate overclock on the CPU. I highly recommend against over clicking the GPU's with the rad space you have to work with — remember, cool and quiet is all I was after.
That's it! If you thought assembling this thing on air was tough, adding water to these tight spaces is even more challenging. Enjoy the case, it really is phenomenal. :)
I really had mixed feelings about the micro-ITX build because the GPU was on the side of the case. Not so with this one. Here the GPU ended up near the top of the case, and I was able to install two 120mm fans in a push/pull configuration, one blowing cold air into the GPU, and the second pulling hot air out of the case.
It was certainly a fiddly case to build in, just because it is so compact. Ended up taking the video card and fans out more than once because I realized I had forgotten something. But all in all, I go great temps out of it, the GPU is happy, everything is stable, and the case is amazing small for a micro-ATX. Especially given that I had a 4GHz Haswell Core i7 with a full size cooler (Cooler Master V8 GTS).
The one downside is the lack of DVD drive bay, but I had an external USB DVD drive, which I only needed to install the OS and haven't needed since.