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Environmental Tech Envirotex Pour-On High Gloss Finish Gallon Kit
- Color: Clear
- Materials or Model Number: Epoxy
- Measurements: 1
- Measurements: 128 ounces
- Shape or Style:
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Preserves and beautifies. One thick coat equals up to 50 coats of varnish. Epoxy resin and polyamine hardener. Heat and alcohol resistent. Water-proof. No polishing required. A clear glass-like finish perfect for coating bar and table tops, photographs, mixed media artwork and bottlecaps. Quantity: 1 Gallon Kit
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
You will need a mask for the fumes (I feel like Darth Vader when I'm wearing it), rubber gloves, a heat gun (this helps get out the bubbles), two paper mixing buckets and a big paint stir stick, two clear plastic "party" cups (I use ones with stripes to help me with the measuring), shims and a level, a toothpick to get out bits of dust from the surface while it's wet, and a cheap chip brush or foam brush to spread it around. I use painter's tape on the bottom of the piece to make it easier to remove the drips without having to sand them off (I remove the tape after about 4 hours, before everything's really hardened, but the pieces are still tacky at this point, so it's a tricky operation). I also elevate the pieces so they're not sitting in the dripped off resin. A cheap plastic tablecloth will protect your work surface, and the dried resin will peel right off it.
So many of the materials (gloves, buckets, cups, stick, and brush) all have to be thrown away afterwards, that it's better to do several projects at once, although not more than you can manage in the time frame before it starts to set. A large cardboard box or a clear plastic container should be set over the finished piece for the first two days while it dries. Dust and little hairs are your worst enemy when using this process, so try to do it in a low-dust environment, and use a strong light to check the surface for the little buggers while it's still wet.
I have done this successfully over photographs, but I have to seal the photos first (this also works with paper). I messed up a few before I figured out the best way to do this. I mount the photos on a painted wooden panel with spray glue, then I spray the picture with fixative, which seems to help protect it. Then I spray on a clear acrylic finish. Then I paint on clear acrylic gloss medium (which is like varnish). I used to go straight from the glue stage to the gloss medium, but that's when I would run into trouble getting the picture too wet and smeared. The two steps in between have eliminated any problems with that. Be sure to allow the piece to dry thoroughly after each step. The gloss medium might not be necessary, since I've used the spray acrylic, but I'm going for a thick, deep, shiny effect.
Anyway, once you get the hang of the process, you will be eager to try it on everything! I looked at this item in art supply stores, but Amazon has the best price.
P.S. I installed a lip around the edge of table 1/4 inch higher than the surface the bottle caps were sitting on. This allowed me to flood the table with the product.
Make sure you mix the product as directed. Mix in one container for a full minute then pour into another container and mix for another full minute. Count or set a timer, they want it to be a minute. You want to see lots of bubbles in the product. These you will pop later on the surface. After stirring, throw the stick you stirred with away. Do not reuse, do not use to spread, just toss.
By not mixing this way I had patches of uncured product all over my counters, about 60 -70 square feet. I was sick. I had to scrape off the product with a putty knife. Some of it was still syrupy but other parts had cured some on the bottom but not the top so I had to work the putty knife under and chip it up in sheets. It was a good day and a half worth of work. I then had to touch up paint and repour.
Only mix a gallon up at a time.
When pouring countertops start pouring in the back then work the product toward the edge using a straight edge. I got a lot of paint stir sticks from my home improvement store. I did this so I didn't have to lean over product to smooth, especially in the corners.
Get a partner to do this with you. It is especially helpful for one to be mixing and pouring while the other one works the product around and pops bubbles with the torch.
Plan on throwing whatever you are wearing away after.
I retouched the edge of my counters since they are straight not rounded with a little disposable sponge roller after. The edges are tough and will be a thinner coating then the tops of the counters if they are straight.
Use a torch or a heat gun to pop the bubbles after. Not to close or it will cause burning in the product. Inches away and keep it moving.
It should be hard to the touch after 8 hours. If you are seeing alligatoring on the surface or feel tackiness prepare to scrape. If it is not initially hard after 8 hours it will never cure correctly.
Get more product then you think you need. They give you a guide on the product and website but the best thing to do is flood coat the counter to get a nice thick covering. You can always repour after 12 hours if you are so inclined. This is not the product to be frugal with! Generosity is the name of the game and you will not be disappointed with the results.
Thankfully after all the scraping then the repainting I had to do and a nice thick pour I am pleased with how they turned out. Even with all the product I had to buy to redo it was still less then new laminate counters and definitely less then granite which is what it looks like.