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How to Climb 5.12 Paperback – Nov 22 2011

5.0 out of 5 stars 1 customer review

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  • How to Climb 5.12
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  • Conditioning for Climbers: The Complete Exercise Guide
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  • Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide To Improving Your Performance
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Product Details

  • Paperback: 192 pages
  • Publisher: Falcon Guides; 3 edition (Nov. 22 2011)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0762770295
  • ISBN-13: 978-0762770298
  • Product Dimensions: 15 x 1.3 x 22.6 cm
  • Shipping Weight: 363 g
  • Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars 1 customer review
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: #42,812 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
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Product Description


Praise for previous editions “Well researched and right on.” ―Lynn Hill, Wold Cup champion and first woman to climb 5.14 "How to Climb 5.12 packs a lot into a slim book . . . a great first training book and a good addition to any training junkie's book shelf.” ―Rock & Ice magazine

From the Back Cover

In the sport of rock climbing, 5.12 is a magical grade. Looked upon as the door to the elite levels of difficulty, 5.12 is believed by many intermediate climbers to be out of their reach, but that's where How to Climb 5.12 comes into play. This performance manual dispels the myth surrounding 5.12 and teaches average climbers that they can achieve heights previously considered the exclusive domain of the full-time climber. How to Climb 5.12 can help intermediate climbers make the physical and mental jump to advanced climbing ability. It offers streamlined tips and suggestions on such critical issues as cutting-edge strength training, mental training, and climbing strategy. How to Climb 5.12 is the perfect manual to guide you on the road to mastery and to help make the trip as short as possible.Inside you'll find a self-assessment test to optimize your training, techniques and drills for accelerated learning of climbing skills, exercises for building strength and endurance, strategies for managing fear and building confidence, and tactics for on-sight climbing and working redpoint projects.

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Top Customer Reviews

Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
This is an excellent book for those who want to push themselves to the next level in climbing -- not even necessarily 5.12, but the next level for you. One thing that surprised me was that there is no discussion of climbing technique at all. Just things like fitness, strength building, and mindset. But that isn't to detract from the book, it has many great tips for progressing as quickly as possible through the grades.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews on (beta) HASH(0xa8d461bc) out of 5 stars 13 reviews
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
HASH(0xa66a4d38) out of 5 stars Should be in every climber's library June 16 2012
By John Doe - Published on
Format: Kindle Edition Verified Purchase
This should be in every climber's library, along with Horst's other works. His material is backed by sound sports science and legitimately works. This is the recently-released third edition of this book, which updates it with some of the same, more recent information he has included in Training for Climbing and Maximum Climbing. Although there is a lot of overlap with those works, this book focuses more on higher end climbers. It not only works for those trying to get to 5.12, but for those trying to advance at all in those higher grades of 5.12+.

The self-evaluations in this work are less elaborate than in his other works, especially compared to Conditioning for Climbing, which had very good evaluations. That is a shame because his better ones can be very helpful. In spite of that this is a great book, especially when combined with Conditioning for Climbing and Maximum Climbing (if you are high-end enough to use this book, you may want to skip Training for Climbing, which is largely the same material but aimed at climbers of all levels).
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
HASH(0xa66a4f84) out of 5 stars Good if you need a motivational talk Nov. 27 2013
By David Kendall - Published on
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
How to Climb 5.12 is more motivational talk than climbing guidance. There is some helpful material on scheduling, recovery, and cost-benefit assessment of different activities. However, it could stand more clear exercises for building climbing skills, strength, and eliminating fear of falling.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
HASH(0xa66a4f48) out of 5 stars Helpful... July 28 2013
By bikerag - Published on
Format: Kindle Edition Verified Purchase
This book was helpful in providing some more training ideas, but it repeats itself a lot and I didn't get a whole lot of new information from it. It's good, but didn't radically reform my climbing.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
HASH(0xa6653258) out of 5 stars Awesome read, has helped me gain at least 1 letter grade by reading and doing basic exercises Dec 5 2013
By Eugene Mak - Published on
Format: Kindle Edition Verified Purchase
Awesome book, very very comprehensive. If I manage to complete everything, it's fairly comprehensive. Obviously the book won't make you climb 5.12, you climb it ;)

Substitute 5.12 for whatever grade you want to climb.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
HASH(0xa66532b8) out of 5 stars Nothing Groundbreaking Sept. 16 2015
By Michael Lester - Published on
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
This is a good book with lots of good mental training tips and is a quick read. I was looking for more workout related information and while this book has a few, it basically takes the stance to just go out and do it. But what is "it?" The biggest points the author was trying to give was basically to lose a lot of weight and how your goals are attainable. Not a lot of effort went into actually telling you how to climb 5.12 but rather how to think you can climb 5.12. Interesting, but is nothing groundbreaking.