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New German Cooking: Recipes for Classics Revisited Hardcover – Jan 27 2015
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This inspiring read includes a mouthwatering combination of the familiar (Bavarian pretzels, beer cheese soup, bratwurst, and apple strudel) with modern riffs such as green asparagus and aged-gouda dip; roasted parsnip salad with hazelnuts and blue cheese; and a simple chicken braised in riesling with onion, leeks, garlic, and green grapes. Those who have the culinary wherewithal to attempt cold-smoked venison carpaccio with pickled oyster mushrooms, or a roasted goose with pretzel-apple stuffing and Gewurztraminer glaze, are given the tools and straightforward directions to do so, but the recipes, for the most part, are easy to source and fairly simple to prepare. This is terrific update on an often-overlooked cuisine." - Publishers Weekly"New German Cooking ain't yer oma's cookbook. It's better. With imagination and finesse, Jeremy and Jessica Nolen update classics and lighten, brighten, and most of all modernize German cooking, that most misunderstood of cuisines." -Hank Shaw, James Beard Award-winning author of the website Hunter Angler Gardener Cook"Chef Jeremy Nolen shares his passion for food and his delicious culinary journey with us through approachable recipes and delectable antidotes. In New German Cooking, Jeremy articulates the refinement of German cooking as well as dispelling some of the cliches of one of my favorite cuisines. His words and recipes bring me back to warm memories of my very own apprenticeship, some decades ago, in the sleepy mountains of Germany's Black Forest!" - Chef John Besh, restaurateur, author, andphilanthropist"The 37-year-old chef and his pastry-chef wife, Jessica, 28, managed to write and test their recipes at home in a mere eight months while working at their Brauhaus Schmitz and Wurst Schmitz restaurants in Philadelphia. Their goal for their first cookbook was to demonstrate an evolutionary approach to the cuisine: seasonal, technique-driven, not heavy. I think they've nailed it, with dishes that taste clean and are omnivorously compelling." - Bonnie Benwick, The Washington Post"Quietly, and with the dedication you would expect from a chef with vision and passion, Jeremy Nolen has been worshipping at the altar of German food, reimagining it for a new generation when needed and relying on timeless technique when warranted. This is Der Himmel for the schnitzel set!" -Andrew Zimmern, chef, author, teacher, and the host, co-creator, and co-producer of Bizarre Foods on Travel Channel"
About the Author
Jeremy and Jessica Nolen are the husband-and-wife chef team behind Brauhaus Schmitz. They live in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
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These are classic recipes revisited and over a 100 of them. Pretzels, noodles, dumplings, soups, salads, pickles and condiments, entrees and a nice sized dessert chapter.
Some of the recipes that called out to me - Pretzel dumpling with smoked sausage, potato, spinach and sauerkraut pierogi, butternut squash-stuffed pasta with chestnut and sage brown butter, beef and veal meatballs with lemon-caper cream sauce, several bratwursts, roasted goose with pretzel-apple stuffing and gewürztraminer glaze, pilsner and pickle juice brined roasted chicken, spaetzle with chicken, chanterelles and cream, cod stuffed cabbage rolls with dill cream sauce, creamy sauerkraut and wheat beer soup, English pea soup with shrimp and fennel confit, mushroom and sauerkraut goulash, crispy sauerkraut fritters, bee sting cake (thrilled to see that in the dessert chapter).
I made three recipes from this book - the crispy sauerkraut fritters which were out of this world great (my ten year old has asked for them every day), the pork schnitzel and the buckwheat spaetzle -- everything was spot on delicious (the buckwheat however was a little strong for me - but that was me not knowing that I had a stronger brand of buckwheat flour). The Nolen's instructions are spot on - do not fear the spaetzle!
I will be making many more recipes from this book. Highly recommend anyone who loves German food to look this book up!
The Nolen's provide recipes for more-than-obtainable ingredients and easy-to-follow instruction, while helping you realize your resourcefulness with other ingredients you've (at least) heard of but never thought to seek out (I currently have a beat on a farm that raises geese ;) for the roasted goose with pretzel-apple stuffing and Gewürztraminer glaze).
I have an affinity for the classics like apple strudel, bratwurst, Bavarian pretzels, beer cheese soup (I LOVE CHEESE - BEST FOOD EVER CREATED) -- but never had a TRUSTWORTHY source for making these items at home. NOW I DO! Plus, these two (Jeremy and Jess) have given me and my wife a new lease on life with their Green Asparagus w/ aged-Gouda dip - AMAZING.
Move over Chef Schuhbeck... the Nolen's are here to stay. THIS BOOK IS A ***MUST*** HAVE for any home cook who loves great German food.
They did get a couple of things wrong: 1) Kale is Gruenkohl, not Gruenekohl. And 2) In Germany, cake is not a dessert. It's a meal, served with coffee to afternoon visitors. The only way it will end up as dessert is whenever there are leftovers. :) I'm surprised they didn't mention this, considering they got Brotzeit 100% correct.
A great resource if you're feeling nostalgic for Germany or just want to try your hand at comfort food that isn't limited to schnitzel.
And as it turns out, it's a really great cookbook. So far, I've bookmarked at least 20 recipes I want to try, and I've tried out two recipes. The sauerkraut fritters are simply fantastic. I went off script a little and shallow fried them as cakes instead of deep frying them like croquettes. Perfect. And then the roasted parsnip salad--a complete hit. Roasted parsnips combined with a beer and malt vinegar dressing, blue cheese, toasted pumpkin seeds, and crunchy pumpernickel bread crumbs? So good! I will be putting crunchy bread crumbs on all my salads from now on.
And more than anything, what I look for in a good cookbook is really great ideas. I might not follow all the recipes to a T, but if a book gives me lots of fodder for my day to day cooking, I'm happy. I already feel inspired to work with German flavors in the rest of my cooking after just looking through the book several times. I look forward to trying more recipes!