A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes Hardcover – Bargain Price, Oct 1 2008
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From the Inside Flap
David Tanis might cook in the most famous restaurant in America, but here he is all about keeping meals simple at home.
In this eloquent appeal for good sense in cooking great food, Davis Tanis serves up twenty-four seasonal menus that are simply conceived and simply served on platters, family style. His food bursts with invention and flavor, such as wild salmon with spicy Vietnamese cucumbers to celebrate spring and braised duck with fried ginger for a cool-weather dinner.
Tanis has an elemental, unpretentious finesse with ingredients and a genuine gift for words. Deliciously down-to-earth, his intuitive menus make cooking a pleasure, not a stress whether you're "Feeling Italian" (Steamed Fennel with Red Pepper Oil; Roasted Quail with Grilled Radicchio and Creamy Polenta; Italian Plum Cake), "Slightly All-American" (Sliced Tomatoes with Sea Salt; Grilled Chicken Breasts; Corn, Squash, and Beans with Jalapeno Butter; Blueberry-Blackberry Crumble), or "Too Darned Hot, Alors!" (Provencal Toasts; Melon and Figs with Prosciutto and Mint; Deconstructed Salade Nicoise; Lavender Honey Ice Cream).
"David s recipes are simple and marvelous," says cookbook author Paula Wolfert. "What more can a food lover want?" Tanis shows you how to slow down, pay attention, give ingredients their due, and provide meals that will delight friends and family.
Here, at last, is a cookbook that has nothing to do with celebrity chefdom and everything to do with real life. Cancel the dinner reservations and pick up this book and rediscover the pleasure of cooking at home.
About the Author
David Tanis is the author of A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes,Heart of the Artichoke and Other KitchenJourneys, and One Good Dish. His weekly column, City Kitchen, appears in The New York Times.
Alice Waters is the visionary chef and owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. She is the author of four cookbooks, including Chez Panisse Vegetables" and Fanny at Chez Panisse". Known as the Queen of Local Food, she founded the Edible schoolyard at Berkeley's Martin Luther King Jr. Middle School. She lives in San Francisco.
Top Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
This book is beautiful, inspiring, intelligent and unpretentious. It is laid out by seasonal menu, rather than classes of food, and gets you thinking about the experience of food as much as the creation. The recipes are well written with lovely pictures, clear formatting, and good descriptions.
I'll also include another quote from Tanis that you might find useful if contemplating a purchase: "Simplicity is key. People who cook fussy food for their friends seem to have the least fun. I say leave that fussy food to those with a staff and a paid dishwasher... A meal needn't be fancy, nor should it take all day to make. But, that said, most of the menus in this book are not those 30-minute-specials-with-only-3-ingredients whose intent seems to be to keep youout of the kitchen. What's wrong with spending a little time in the kitchen?"
The most telling test of value to me is if I donate it to the local library or pass it on to someone else.
I purchased A Platter of Figs a while back based on something I had read in Saveur Magazine. The book was suggested as a warm appealing book of approachable warm appealing meals for friends by a warm approachable author.
Much of that is true of this work. David Tanis comes across as a surviving latter-day hippie who found a job. He lives in Paris and California, and one can't escape the feeling that after his meals with seven other friends (his recipes are indicated as proportioned for eight people), they can all be found on his back porch enveloped in a cloud of sweet-smelling smoke from a stash, holding wine glasses in the dangle-dangerously position and saying words like "cool." It is a good read, and I was left with the image of myself in a pair of tattered jeans, a flannel shirt and a pair of sandals casually turning out knockout dinners while I sipped a glass of wine. The recipes are well thought out (with an occasional mistake or two) and nicely guided by Chef Tanis, and most of them are well within the realm of possibility for any moderately experienced cook.
The problem for me with this book is that it is not as simple as it purports to be...not if you are really doing things correctly. The cooking part is a little demanding, but probably not too challenging if you are already fairly adept in a kitchen, but the foraging part is pure Chez Panisse/California/ France activity based in a now time-worn litany: find only the best ingredients and cook with them only in season. To that end, frequent the farmers' markets and make friends with purveyors.
It seems to me intuitively obvious that most meals would be elevated if an aspiring cook could call his or her supplier and order ten pounds of fresh, grass-fed lamb from a farmer who knew each of his animals by name and who sang them to sleep at night so that they would have tender dreams, and match the meat offering with a side of asparagus that came wrapped with a note from the farmer's wife. ("Ere it is, David. I have picked it myself only zis morning for you. Ze dew is still on the florets.")
David Tanis's work is a bit removed from the reality that most of us do not have the connections to which he is so accustomed, and that leaves many of us with foraging on a much different level for ingredients. He mentions, in one chapter, for example, that shortly after the arrival of good friends, they all took off to a local farmer's market to look for items for supper. Do you have a farm market to which you would all go to look for food? Do you have friends who would consider that type of outing as a primary function?
Those who already have their own suppliers and access to premium quality goods and services, will find that this book does provide the methodology for producing very good meals, but then again, so do books produced by Judy Rogers (and she is a wonderfully instructive teacher as well), Alice Waters, Thomas Keller, and many other food notables.
If you are looking to make a shift in your life style/approach to the whole process...and I mean the whole process...of cooking, then this book may well provide you with access to, and inspiration for, that change. If not, if you are going to substitute store bought mayonnaise rather than make your own, (Tannis "vehemently" rejects the idea of that substitution), if you are going to purchase supermarket beef, or if you are willing to forget the seasonality thing and use that mid-winter tomato anyway, then you may well, after getting to the end of a meal made from recipes found in the book, wonder what all the hoopla was about. The meal may have been better than what you would have produced, but it probably would not be better than you could have done with any good collection of good recipes.
Tanis's book is an interesting read. Tanis is friendly, and his style lends itself to on-the-couch-with-feet-on-the-coffee-table reading. It is just important to understand the caveat that that the distance between your meals and David's is based on your ability in foraging as much as anything else.
If you understand that getting the best out of this book involves some seriously extended effort, and decide that seven other people are worth that effort, then a neat adventure waits for you. (I say this without a trace of sarcasm. I have gone to some pretty good lengths to produce some special meals, had the pleasure of working with some great purveyors, and produced some outstanding feasts.) If you are just looking for a book that provides you with the wherewith all to cook for friends, though, you might look into Ina Garten books. The recipes and methods there produce good food, and they are not predicated on the idea you that you locate a berry stand somewhere on route 15 that has the best blackberries in the state of Wherever-You-Live.
By the way, I gave my copy of A Platter of Figs to a friend who enjoys cooking. I know the mantra and when I will choose to follow it. He can anguish over the off-season tomato.
He said his favorite thing about the book is that it has made it easy for him to try out new ingredients (this week it was turnips) without a lot of fuss. He also enjoys the organization of the book by menu. Finally, this is truly a beautifully made book, with gorgeous photography and nice paper.
I would say this book is great for a home chef with a bit of experience who is looking to try new things and expand their horizons.
I have made from this book: green chili stew, salmon with Vietnamese cucumbers, spinach pie, pork loin, paella with shrimp and squid ink, to name a few. All have turned out well.
There are so many memoir type cookbooks out there and although this is not officially one of them, Tanis does have his personal musings about food included with each menu. I love the memoir/cookbook genre, but they can be a bit precious...."The waft of the scent of (fill in name of flower/fruit) blossoms from the (fill in name of tree) in (fill in glamorous or exotic country) where my family had a house....." Tanis' musings are so engaging but with a down to earth voice that does not come off like he is trying to write a poetic novel. I have actually read both his books cover to cover. He wrote one sentence about zucchini as a preface to a another recipe for zucchini and I have taken this idea and eaten it literally hundreds of times adding my own variations (zucchini and onion cut up and slowly stewed in olive oil as a side dish, or over pasta). This is what I love about this book- Tanis encourages you to explore, to work with food the way a chef does- not by following exact times but cooking by smell, sight and feel and substituting based on what you happen to have on hand or what looks good at the market.
The book is also very of the moment (it's divided into seasonal menus) and yet not at all fussy. You would happily have eaten these foods years ago and will happily eat it years from now. There are some unusual menus and ingredients that I would not try (a chicken terrine that looks a bit jello-y and aspic-y and not my thing), but overall I highly recommend this book.
Why only 4 stars, then? I fear it's the book's production that lets it down. The worst aspect is the portion control. Standard recipes in books are for 4 - halve it for two and double for a party of eight. Tanis' quantities are all over the place. Sometimes it's easy to catch - you know that 1lb of protein per person is plain wrong. Other times, it's much more difficult. A competent editor would have put this right. Then there are minor things like a lack of a sensible recipe index.
But those are minor gripes. If you enjoy good food and good cooking, this book is a treat - I've already given three to friends!